Bernese Oberland
5
Day Itinerary •
Switzerland
Five days in the Bernese Oberland lets you explore the full extraordinary range of the greatest mountain region in Europe, from the Jungfraujoch at the top of Europe and the extraordinary Lauterbrunnen valley of 72 waterfalls to the remote Kandersteg with its extraordinary lake, the turquoise waters of Lake Brienz, the charming capital of Bern with its extraordinary medieval arcades, and the Niederhorn ridge above Lake Thun. This route covers the complete Bernese Oberland. The Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau seen from Grindelwald and Murren, the car-free villages of Murren and Wengen, the Aletsch Glacier from the Jungfraujoch, the extraordinary Oeschinensee above Kandersteg, the finest hiking trails in the Alps, and the UNESCO Old City of Bern with its 6km of medieval covered arcades.
Best Time To Visit
June to September or December to March
Getting There
Fly into Zurich or Bern, train to Interlaken Ost
Getting Around
Swiss Travel Pass covers trains, boats and most cable cars
Budget Per Day
Approx 150 to 250 CHF per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, walking and mountain railways
DAY 1
JUNGFRAUJOCH AND MURREN
MORNING
JUNGFRAUJOCH, THE TOP OF EUROPE
The Jungfraujoch at 3,454 metres is the highest railway station in Europe, reached by the extraordinary cogwheel Jungfrau Railway from Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen. The Aletsch Glacier, the longest glacier in the Alps at 23km, stretches south in extraordinary scale. The Sphinx Observatory gives views across four countries on a clear day. Book the first train at 8am for the clearest skies and fewest people on the glacier. Return ticket from Grindelwald approx 145 CHF. Travel: 30 min train back to Grindelwald
MIDDAY
GRINDELWALD AND THE FIRST CLIFF WALK
The First Gondola above Grindelwald gives access to the extraordinary First Cliff Walk, a series of suspended walkways and bridges along the ridge above the treeline with the Eiger, Wetterhorn and Schreckhorn directly visible. The walk is extraordinary and requires no special equipment in summer. The Bachalpsee, a 1-hour walk from the top station, gives the finest mountain lake reflection in the Bernese Oberland. Cable car approx 56 CHF return. Travel: 45 min train and cable car to Murren
AFTERNOON
MURREN AND THE SCHILTHORN
Murren sits on a clifftop shelf above the Lauterbrunnen valley entirely car-free, reached only by cable car. The Schilthorn at 2,970 metres above Murren gives the extraordinary 360-degree Piz Gloria panorama used as the James Bond villain's lair in On Her Majesty's Secret Service. The revolving restaurant at the summit is extraordinary. Cable car from Murren approx 104 CHF return.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Bachalpsee above Grindelwald First is the most extraordinary mountain lake in the Bernese Oberland. A 1-hour walk from the cable car gives the extraordinary reflection of the Wetterhorn and Schreckhorn in still water. Free once you have the cable car ticket. The finest photography spot in the region.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Grindelwald Coffee before the first Jungfraujoch train. Bakeries open at 7am. | Lunch: Restaurant First, Grindelwald Outstanding mountain restaurant at the top of the First gondola. Local rosti and cheese. | Dinner: Eiger Guesthouse, Grindelwald Extraordinary views of the north face at dinner. Zurcher Geschnetzeltes and Swiss wine.
DAY 2
LAUTERBRUNNEN AND WENGEN
MORNING
LAUTERBRUNNEN, THE VALLEY OF 72 WATERFALLS
The Lauterbrunnen valley is one of the great natural spectacles of Europe, a sheer-sided glacial trough with 72 waterfalls cascading from vertical cliffs on both sides. The Staubbach Falls at 297 metres are the finest free-falling waterfall in Switzerland. Trummelbach Falls inside the mountain, reached by a tunnel lift, carry the meltwater of three glaciers through ten glacier waterfalls inside the living rock. The sound and scale are extraordinary. Entry to Trummelbach approx 14 CHF. Travel: 20 min cable car to Murren
MIDDAY
MURREN, THE NORTHFACE TRAIL
The Northface Trail from Murren to Gimmelwald is the finest intermediate hike in the Bernese Oberland, traversing the clifftop shelf with the Eiger north face directly opposite at the same altitude. The trail passes through alpine flower meadows in summer with the entire Lauterbrunnen valley 800 metres below. The walk takes approximately 2.5 hours at a gentle pace. The village of Gimmelwald at the far end is entirely undiscovered and extraordinary. Travel: 30 min cable car and train
AFTERNOON
WENGEN, THE CAR-FREE VILLAGE ON THE SUNNY SHELF
Wengen sits on the south-facing shelf above Lauterbrunnen entirely car-free, its extraordinary position giving sun all afternoon while the valley below is in shade. The village is reached by cogwheel train from Lauterbrunnen and has a quieter, more traditional character than Grindelwald. The walk along the Menlichenbahn ridge above Wengen gives extraordinary views over both the Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald valleys simultaneously.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The village of Gimmelwald below Murren is the finest undiscovered village in the Bernese Oberland. No tourist shops, no coach parties, just extraordinary old timber chalets on the cliff above the valley. The Mountain Hostel here is legendary among Alpine walkers. Stay the night for the finest budget experience in Switzerland.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Horner Pub, Lauterbrunnen Coffee and bread before Trummelbach opens at 9am. | Lunch: Restaurant Allmendhubel, Murren Outstanding above Murren. Local cheese and mountain ham. | Dinner: Hotel Silberhorn, Wengen Classic mountain hotel restaurant. Bernese platter and local Fendant wine.
DAY 3
KANDERSTEG AND LAKE BRIENZ
MORNING
KANDERSTEG, THE ALPINE VALLEY
Kandersteg is the most beautiful undiscovered valley in the Bernese Oberland, a long alpine valley running south to the Italian border with extraordinary views of the Bluemlisalp massif. The village is the starting point for the extraordinary Oeschinensee, one of the most beautiful mountain lakes in Switzerland. The valley was the location for the extraordinary Via Francigena pilgrimage route to Rome. The train from Interlaken to Kandersteg takes approximately 1 hour. Travel: 20 min cable car to Oeschinensee
MIDDAY
OESCHINENSEE, THE EMERALD MOUNTAIN LAKE
The Oeschinensee at 1,578 metres is the finest mountain lake in the Bernese Oberland, an extraordinary emerald lake enclosed by vertical cliffs rising 1,500 metres above the water on three sides. The cable car from Kandersteg takes 8 minutes. The walk around the lake takes approximately 2 hours and gives extraordinary views of the Bluemlisalp glacier above. Rowing boats can be hired on the lake. Cable car approx 26 CHF return. Travel: 1 hour train to Interlaken, connection to Brienz
AFTERNOON
LAKE BRIENZ BY BOAT
Lake Brienz is the most extraordinarily coloured lake in Switzerland, its turquoise glacial water unlike any other lake in the Alps. The boat from Interlaken Ost to Brienz stops at the extraordinary Giessbach Falls, where one of the finest Belle Epoque hotels in Switzerland sits beside the falls above the lake. The Brienzersee boat is one of the most beautiful short lake journeys in Europe and is covered by the Swiss Travel Pass.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Aare Gorge at Meiringen, 20 minutes from Brienz, is one of the most extraordinary natural gorges in Switzerland, a 1.4km walk through a canyon just 1 metre wide in places carved by the Aare river over millennia. Entry approx 9 CHF. Meiringen is also the home of the meringue, invented here in 1600, and the Reichenbach Falls where Sherlock Holmes fell fighting Professor Moriarty.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Kandersteg village Coffee before the cable car opens. The bakery on the main street is extraordinary. | Lunch: Restaurant Oeschinensee Outstanding lakeside restaurant at the emerald lake. Local trout and Swiss cheese. | Dinner: Restaurant Baren, Brienz Traditional Bernese restaurant in the woodcarving village. Local rosti and Bernese wine.
DAY 4
SPIEZ AND THE NIEDERHORN
MORNING
HARDER KULM, THE TWO LAKES PANORAMA
The Harder Kulm at 1,322 metres gives the most extraordinary panorama in the region, the Two Lakes viewpoint looking simultaneously over Lake Thun and Lake Brienz with the Jungfrau directly behind. The funicular from Interlaken Ost takes 10 minutes. The extraordinary viewing platform extends over the cliff edge on a cantilevered platform. The walk down through the forest takes approximately 45 minutes through old beech woodland. Travel: 30 min boat from Interlaken to Spiez
MIDDAY
SPIEZ, THE CASTLE ON LAKE THUN
Spiez is the finest small town on Lake Thun, its extraordinary medieval castle on a promontory above the lake one of the best-preserved in Switzerland. The castle dates from the 12th century and contains an extraordinary Romanesque church. The vineyard beside the castle produces the finest Bernese white wine, a Pinot Gris of extraordinary quality sold only locally. The view across Lake Thun to the Stockhorn is extraordinary. Travel: 1 hour boat back to Interlaken
AFTERNOON
NIEDERHORN RIDGE WALK
The Niederhorn at 1,950 metres above Beatenberg gives the most extraordinary ridge walk in the lower Bernese Oberland, a 2-hour traverse along the ridge above Lake Thun with views over the lake to the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. The cable car from Beatenberg is reached by bus from Interlaken. The ridge walk is moderate and requires no special equipment in summer. The descent to Beatenberg is through extraordinary alpine meadows.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Thunersee boat from Interlaken to Thun passes the extraordinary St Beatus Caves at Beatushohlen, limestone caves extending 1km into the cliff above the lake with extraordinary stalactite formations. Entry approx 18 CHF. The caves are named for the Irish monk Beatus who lived here in the 6th century and are one of the most extraordinary prehistoric cave systems in Switzerland.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Schuh, Interlaken Coffee on the Hoheweg with the Jungfrau view before the funicular. | Lunch: Restaurant Schloss Spiez Outstanding restaurant in the castle grounds above the lake. Local pike and Bernese wine. | Dinner: Restaurant du Theatre, Interlaken Classic Bernese cuisine on the final Interlaken evening. Local veal and rosti.
DAY 5
BERN
MORNING
BERN, THE UNESCO MEDIEVAL CITY
Bern is the finest medieval city in Switzerland and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The extraordinary 6km of covered arcades, called Lauben, are the longest covered shopping promenade in the world, allowing the entire city centre to be walked in all weathers without getting wet. The Zytglogge clock tower with its extraordinary mechanical figures dates from 1530. The Federal Palace, the seat of the Swiss government, gives free guided tours. The Bear Park beside the Aare is extraordinary. Travel: 20 min walk to Rose Garden
MIDDAY
THE ROSE GARDEN AND OLD CITY PANORAMA
The Rosengarten above the Aare bend gives the finest panorama over Bern's extraordinary medieval skyline, the red-roofed towers and spires of the Old City spread below the Alps. The garden contains 220 varieties of roses, 200 types of iris and 28 varieties of rhododendron. Free and open always. The descent through the Mattequartier, Bern's extraordinary bohemian riverside quarter below the old city walls, is the finest hidden walk in the city. Travel: 30 min train to Zurich or onward
AFTERNOON
EINSTEIN HOUSE AND BERN CATHEDRAL
Albert Einstein lived in Bern from 1902 to 1909 and developed the Special Theory of Relativity in his apartment at Kramgasse 49, now an extraordinary small museum. The Bern Cathedral, the largest late-Gothic church in Switzerland, has the finest carved tympanum in the country above its main portal. The cathedral tower at 100 metres gives extraordinary views over the entire Old City. Entry to tower approx 5 CHF.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Bernisches Historisches Museum in Bern contains the extraordinary Bern Tapestries, six 15th-century Flemish tapestries captured from the Burgundian army of Charles the Bold at the Battle of Murten in 1476. They are among the finest medieval tapestries in the world and are almost entirely unknown outside Switzerland. Entry approx 13 CHF.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Bern Old City Coffee under the extraordinary Lauben arcades before the clock tower. | Lunch: Restaurant Rosengarten, Bern Outstanding restaurant in the rose garden with panoramic Old City views. | Dinner: Kornhauskeller, Bern The most extraordinary restaurant in Bern, in a vaulted 18th-century granary. Bernese cuisine and local wine.
Where To Stay
Interlaken, Nights 1 to 2 Hotel du Nord or Metropole. Central base for Jungfraujoch and Lauterbrunnen. Approx 130 to 280 CHF. Kandersteg, Night 3 Hotel Adler or Royal Park Hotel. Quiet valley village. Approx 110 to 200 CHF per night. Bern, Nights 4 to 5 Hotel Bern or Bellevue Palace. UNESCO Old City. Approx 150 to 350 CHF per night.
Top Tips
1. Book the Jungfraujoch railway weeks ahead in summer. The first train gives the clearest skies and fewest crowds.
2. Stay a night in Murren or Wengen. Both car-free villages are extraordinary at sunset and sunrise on the Eiger.
3. The Oeschinensee above Kandersteg is the most undervisited extraordinary lake in the Bernese Oberland.
4. The Swiss Travel Pass covers the Lake Brienz boat. The Giessbach Falls stop mid-lake is the finest hidden gem.
5. Bern's Rose Garden above the Old City gives the finest panorama over the medieval roofline. Free and open always.
6. Buy picnic supplies at any Coop or Migros. Eating above the snowline costs a fraction of mountain restaurant prices.
Total Budget
150 to 250 CHF/day
