BalearicIslands
5
Day Itinerary •
Spain
The Balearic Islands contain multitudes. Mallorca with its UNESCO mountains, Arab baths and extraordinary hidden calas. Menorca with its perfectly preserved Baroque capital, prehistoric stone towers that predate Stonehenge, and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve coastline of hidden beaches accessible only on foot. Two very different islands, both extraordinary. This 5-day route covers the best of both. Two days exploring hidden Mallorca, from Palma's medieval layers to Tramuntana mountain villages and wild eastern calas. Then the ferry to Menorca for three days discovering the island's ancient prehistoric heritage, the finest preserved Baroque city in Spain, and the wild northern coast of the Cami de Cavalls ancient path.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Palma de Mallorca Airport (PMI)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 90 to 140 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
PALMA AND SERRA DE TRAMUNTANA
MORNING
PALMA OLD TOWN HIDDEN LAYERS
The Arab Baths from the 10th century are the finest surviving Moorish structure in the Balearics, hidden in a garden in the old Jewish quarter. The Call is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways with Hebrew inscriptions still visible on doorways. The Palau March contains one of the finest sculpture collections in Spain on its rooftop terrace with cathedral views. Drive: 30 min drive to Tramuntana
MIDDAY
VALLDEMOSSA AND DEIA
Valldemossa is famous for the winter Chopin and George Sand spent in the abandoned Carthusian monastery. Arrive before 10am for empty streets and extraordinary morning light. Then drive 20 minutes to Deia, where Robert Graves lived for 50 years. Walk down to the Cala de Deia, the tiny hidden cove below the village reached by a 15-minute footpath. Drive: 30 min drive to Sa Calobra
AFTERNOON
SA CALOBRA GORGE
Reached via 14km of extraordinary hairpin bends through the Tramuntana to a turquoise cove below. The Torrent de Pareis gorge walk through a narrow canyon between 200-metre walls is extraordinary. The cove is well-known but the gorge walk is largely avoided by day-trippers and completely worth it.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The viewpoint of Sa Foradada near Deia is a dramatic rocky headland with a circular hole bored through the rock by the sea. A 40-minute walk through olive groves, with views over the Mediterranean and Tramuntana behind. Completely free and rarely visited.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Bar Bosch, Palma The most traditional cafe in Palma on the Plaza del Rei Joan Carles since 1908. | Lunch: Restaurante El Barrigon, Deia Local seafood and Mallorcan wine on a stone terrace above the village. | Dinner: Ca Na Toneta, Caimari One of the finest traditional restaurants in Mallorca. Farm-to-table Mallorcan cuisine. Book weeks ahead.
DAY 2
MALLORCA EAST COAST
MORNING
CAP DE FORMENTOR AND POLLENCA
Cap de Formentor is the northernmost point of Mallorca with extraordinary views over the Bay of Pollenca. In summer a shuttle bus runs as the road is closed to private cars. Then drive to Pollenca, one of the finest small towns in Mallorca. The 365-step Calvari staircase climbs to extraordinary views. The Sunday market is the best on the island. Drive: 30 min drive to east coast
MIDDAY
THE HIDDEN CALAS OF THE EAST COAST
The eastern coastline contains dozens of extraordinary coves accessible only on foot. The Cala des Moro requires a 15-minute walk through pine forest and is widely considered the most beautiful cove in Mallorca. The Cala Llombards and Es Pontas rock arch nearby are equally spectacular. These calas look almost Caribbean in the afternoon light. Drive: 20 min drive to Coves del Drach
AFTERNOON
COVES DEL DRACH, THE UNDERGROUND LAKE
The most extraordinary sea caves in the Mediterranean. Four connected chambers contain Lake Martel, the largest underground lake in the world. Classical music concerts take place on the lake by candlelight. Entry approx 16 euros. One of the most remarkable underground experiences in Europe.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cala Varques near Manacor is one of the most beautiful hidden beaches in Mallorca, accessible only by a 20-minute walk through pine forest or by kayak from the adjacent coves. No facilities, no development and no direct road access. Crystal clear water and almost no visitors even in high summer.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Pollenca Breakfast under the arcades of the main square before the market opens. | Lunch: Plaça Major restaurant, Pollenca Local seafood and house wine on the arcaded square. | Dinner: Restaurante Ca Na Marquesa, Santanyi Outstanding local restaurant near the hidden calas. Fresh fish and Mallorcan wines.
DAY 3
MENORCA: CIUDADELA
MORNING
CIUDADELA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BAROQUE CITY IN SPAIN
Ciudadela is the former capital of Menorca and one of the most extraordinary small cities in the Mediterranean. The old town is a perfectly preserved Baroque masterpiece of golden limestone palaces, hidden courtyards, Gothic churches and narrow alleyways unchanged since the 17th century. The harbour is a deep narrow inlet lined with restaurants and the view from the bridges over the port at dusk is among the most beautiful in the Balearics. Drive: 20 min drive to talayots
MIDDAY
THE PREHISTORIC TALAYOTS, MENORCA'S STONE CIRCLES
Menorca contains the most extraordinary concentration of prehistoric monuments in the western Mediterranean, predating Stonehenge and largely unknown to visitors who come only for the beaches. The Talayotic culture left stone towers, burial chambers and the extraordinary T-shaped taula monuments scattered across the island. Naveta des Tudons is the finest and most accessible, a 3,500-year-old collective tomb in perfect condition. Entry free. Drive: 15 min drive to Cala Macarella
AFTERNOON
CALA MACARELLA, THE FINEST COVE IN MENORCA
Cala Macarella is considered the most beautiful beach in Menorca, a deep turquoise cove flanked by pine-covered cliffs with the adjacent Cala Macarelleta visible through a gap in the rocks. Accessible by a 20-minute walk from the car park through pine forest. In September and October the water temperature is 26 degrees and the crowds have largely gone.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Lithica quarry on the outskirts of Ciudadela is one of the most unusual spaces in the Balearics. Ancient sandstone quarries worked since medieval times have created a series of extraordinary carved chambers, underground gardens and natural theatres in the stone. Entry approx 5 euros and completely unlike anything else on the island.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Ciudadela old town Several beautiful cafes in the Baroque centre. Try the traditional Menorcan pastry of ensaimada with sobrasada. | Lunch: Restaurante Es Tast de na Silvia Outstanding traditional Menorcan restaurant. Local sobrasada, cheese and the freshest fish. Book ahead. | Dinner: Cafe Balear, Ciudadela harbour The most beloved fish restaurant in Ciudadela, overlooking the harbour. Caldero de langosta and local wine.
DAY 4
MENORCA HIDDEN INTERIOR
MORNING
MONTE TORO, THE SACRED SUMMIT OF MENORCA
Monte Toro is the highest point in Menorca at 358 metres and the spiritual centre of the island. The Augustinian convent at the summit has been a place of pilgrimage since the 13th century and a statue of the Virgin overlooks the entire island. The 360-degree view from the summit is extraordinary, with both coasts, the prehistoric monuments scattered across the fields below, and on very clear days the mountains of Mallorca visible to the west. Drive: 30 min drive to Fornells
MIDDAY
FORNELLS, THE HIDDEN FISHING VILLAGE OF THE NORTH COAST
Fornells is a perfectly preserved whitewashed fishing village on a large natural harbour on the wild north coast of Menorca. The village is famous throughout Spain for its caldereta de langosta, a lobster stew that has made the restaurant El Cranc one of the most celebrated in the Balearics. Walk the harbour front, watch the fishing boats and then order the finest lobster stew of your life. Drive: 30 min drive to Cap de Cavalleria
AFTERNOON
CAP DE CAVALLERIA, THE WILD NORTHERN HEADLAND
The northernmost point of Menorca is one of the wildest and most dramatic coastal landscapes in the Balearics. A lighthouse stands at the tip above 100-metre cliffs with the open Mediterranean stretching to the horizon. The surrounding coast is a protected nature reserve of extraordinary beauty. Walk the clifftop path in either direction from the lighthouse for the finest views of the wild northern coast.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Camino Real from Ciudadela to Mahon is an ancient royal road used since prehistoric times, passing through the most important archaeological sites on the island. A 3-hour walk along the central ridge gives views of both coasts simultaneously and passes through prehistoric landscapes unchanged for 3,000 years. Completely free and virtually unknown to visitors.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar Tritón, Mahon Start the day in Menorca's capital. The port of Mahon is one of the largest natural harbours in the world. | Lunch: El Cranc, Fornells The most famous restaurant in Menorca. The caldereta de langosta has been served here for generations. Book ahead. | Dinner: Es Cranc Pelut, near Fornells More informal sibling of El Cranc. Excellent fresh fish, local wine and harbour views at honest prices.
DAY 5
THE CAMI DE CAVALLS
MORNING
CAMI DE CAVALLS, THE ANCIENT COASTAL PATH
The Cami de Cavalls is a 185km coastal path that circles the entire island of Menorca, used since the Middle Ages to allow cavalry to patrol the coast. The most extraordinary stretch runs along the wild south coast between the fishing village of Binibeca and the ancient harbour of Sant Lluis. Walk 2 to 3 hours of this path to access a succession of hidden coves, sea caves and clifftop viewpoints inaccessible by any other means. Drive: 30 min drive to Binibeca
MIDDAY
BINIBECA VELL, THE LABYRINTHINE WHITE VILLAGE
Binibeca Vell is a 1970s fishing village built as a labyrinth of white-painted alleys and arches inspired by traditional Menorcan architecture. The result is extraordinary: a maze of whitewashed passages, staircases and bridges between houses, entirely pedestrianised and unlike anywhere else in the Balearics. The tiny harbour below has turquoise water and a handful of fishing boats. Drive: 20 min drive to Mahon
AFTERNOON
MAHON, THE CAPITAL WITH THE WORLD'S SECOND LARGEST HARBOUR
Mahon is the capital of Menorca and the site of the second largest natural harbour in the world. The old town above the harbour contains extraordinary Baroque and Georgian architecture from the British occupation in the 18th century. Gin production was introduced by the British and Menorcan gin is still one of the finest in Spain. Visit the Xoriguer gin distillery on the harbour for free tastings and buy a bottle to take home.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cova den Xoroi is a series of caves in sheer cliffs above the sea on the south coast of Menorca, now a legendary bar and club built into the natural rock. By day it opens as a viewpoint cafe with the most extraordinary views of the Mediterranean through cave windows. Entry approx 10 euros and one of the most dramatic settings of any bar in Spain.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Sant Lluis village The village has excellent local cafes. Start walking the Cami early to have the path to yourself. | Lunch: Restaurante La Minerva, Mahon harbour Outstanding floating restaurant on the Mahon harbour. Fresh fish and local gin cocktails with harbour views. | Dinner: Restaurante Ses Forquilles, Mahon One of the finest restaurants in Menorca. Modern Menorcan cuisine celebrating the island's extraordinary produce.
Where To Stay
Palma or Tramuntana, Nights 1 to 2 Hotel Convent de la Missio, Palma or Hotel La Residencia, Deia. Approx 150 to 350 euros per night. Menorca, Nights 3 to 5 Hotel Tres Sants, Ciudadela or rural hotel near Fornells. Approx 100 to 180 euros per night. Budget Option Mallorca: Hotel Calatrava, Palma from approx 70 euros. Menorca: Hotel Almirante from approx 60 euros.
Top Tips
1. Valldemossa gets crowded after 10am. Arrive before 9am for the morning light and empty streets.
2. Cala des Moro has only 80 parking spaces. Arrive before 9am or park 1km away and walk.
3. Cap de Formentor road closes to cars 10am to 8pm in July and August. Take the shuttle bus.
4. Book Marc Fosh or Ca Na Toneta restaurants at least 2 weeks ahead. Both fill up extremely fast.
5. The Sa Calobra road has a speed limit of 30kmh. The hairpin bends take 30 minutes to descend.
6. Mallorca sobrassada is a cured sausage unique to the island. Buy it at Mercat de Santa Catalina.
Total Budget
100 to 170 euros/day