Baja
5
Day Itinerary •
Mexico
Five days in Baja California gives you the full extraordinary depth of the finest desert peninsula on earth. Beyond the wine valleys, whale lagoons and whale shark waters lie the world's only eastern Pacific hard coral reef at Cabo Pulmo, the extraordinary wilderness of the East Cape, the boojum tree forests of Catavina and the extraordinary 7-metre tides of San Felipe on the northern Sea of Cortez. This route completes the definitive Baja road trip from Ensenada to Todos Santos, covering every dimension of the extraordinary peninsula from its Sonoran Desert interior and Pacific whale lagoons to the Sea of Cortez reef of Cabo Pulmo and the art galleries of Todos Santos. Five days on a peninsula that rewards every kilometre of extraordinary desert road with something remarkable.
Best Time To Visit
October to June
Getting There
Fly into Los Cabos (SJD) or Tijuana (TIJ)
Getting Around
Rental car essential, 4WD recommended for East Cape
Budget Per Day
Approx 85 to 260 USD per person per day
Difficulity
Moderate, long desert drives
DAY 1
ENSENADA AND THE WINE VALLEY
MORNING
ENSENADA AND THE VALLE DE GUADALUPE WINE ROUTE
The Valle de Guadalupe 30km from Ensenada is the most extraordinary wine region in Mexico, producing internationally celebrated wines from 150 wineries in a landscape of granite boulders, olive trees and Mexican chapparal. The extraordinary outdoor restaurants of Fauna, Corazon de Tierra and Malva serve the finest food in Baja California. The Ruta del Vino wine trail through the valley is the finest in Latin America. Wine tastings from approx 150 pesos. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive to coast
MIDDAY
ENSENADA HARBOUR AND LA BUFADORA, THE GREATEST SEA GEYSER IN THE AMERICAS
La Bufadora 30km south of Ensenada is the most powerful marine blowhole in North America, a sea geyser in a narrow rock channel that erupts to 30 metres every few minutes with an extraordinary roar. The drive along the Punta Banda peninsula through dramatic Pacific coastline to reach it is itself extraordinary. Entry approx 20 pesos. The seafood stalls at the entrance sell the finest smoked tuna tostadas in Baja. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
ENSENADA FISH MARKET AND THE BAJA STREET FOOD SCENE
The Mercado Negro fish market in Ensenada is the finest in Baja California, its extraordinary tuna, lobster, abalone and sea urchin fresh off the boats every morning. The taco stands along Avenida Ruiz serve the original fish taco, invented in Ensenada, still the finest in the world. The extraordinary Hussong's Cantina, claiming to be the birthplace of the margarita in 1941, is the finest historic bar in Baja. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ruta del Vino cycling trail through the Valle de Guadalupe is one of the most extraordinary cycling experiences in Mexico, a 20km route through vineyards and olive groves connecting the finest small producers in the valley. Bicycle hire from the valley entrance approx 200 pesos. The extraordinary craft beer scene in the valley, centred on the Cerveceria Wendlandt, rivals the wine. The sunset over the granite boulders from the upper valley is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Valle de Guadalupe cafe Coffee and pan dulce at the extraordinary morning market in the wine valley before the wineries open. | Lunch: Fauna, Valle de Guadalupe The finest restaurant in Baja California. Extraordinary wine country cuisine. Book weeks ahead. | Dinner: El Rey Sol, Ensenada The finest traditional Baja and French cuisine in Ensenada since 1947. Extraordinary lobster.
DAY 2
GRAY WHALE WATCHING
MORNING
WHALE WATCHING AT SAN IGNACIO LAGOON, THE GREATEST WILDLIFE EXPERIENCE IN MEXICO
The San Ignacio Lagoon on the Pacific coast of Baja Sur is the most extraordinary wildlife experience in Mexico and one of the finest in the world. Gray whales come to this protected lagoon every January to April to give birth and raise their calves in water so shallow they are visible from the boat. The whales approach the pangas voluntarily to be touched, an extraordinary and entirely unique behaviour. Permits required, tours from approx 2,000 pesos. Drive/Travel: 2 hours drive
MIDDAY
THE VIZCAINO BIOSPHERE RESERVE, THE LARGEST PROTECTED AREA IN LATIN AMERICA
The Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve surrounding San Ignacio Lagoon is the largest protected natural area in Latin America, covering 2.5 million hectares of extraordinary Sonoran Desert, Pacific coastline and Sea of Cortez islands. The extraordinary Sierra de San Francisco cave paintings, painted by the Cochimi people between 100BC and AD1300, are a UNESCO World Heritage site accessible by mule from San Ignacio. Entry approx 100 pesos. Drive/Travel: 3 hours drive south
AFTERNOON
LORETO, THE OLDEST PERMANENT SETTLEMENT IN BAJA CALIFORNIA
Loreto on the Sea of Cortez is the oldest permanent Spanish settlement in Baja California, its extraordinary Mission Nuestra Senora de Loreto founded in 1697 the oldest in the peninsula. The extraordinary turquoise Sea of Cortez at Loreto with its backdrop of the Sierra de la Giganta mountains is the most beautiful coastal setting in Baja. The Loreto Bay marine park snorkelling is the finest on the Sea of Cortez. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Misiones of Baja California form the most extraordinary and least visited historical trail in Mexico, a chain of 23 Jesuit and Franciscan missions founded between 1697 and 1834 across the entire 1,300km length of the peninsula. The mission at San Borja, 60km from the Pacific coast on a dirt road through extraordinary desert, is the most intact and atmospheric, its 18th-century stone church still standing in a remote oasis. Entry free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: San Ignacio village store Simple provisions before the early morning whale watching departure. The village is extraordinary in the dawn light. | Lunch: Restaurant in San Ignacio Outstanding local Baja food in the extraordinary oasis village beneath the date palms. | Dinner: El Nido, Loreto The finest traditional restaurant in Loreto. Outstanding mesquite-grilled beef and Sea of Cortez fish.
DAY 3
LOS CABOS AND LA PAZ
MORNING
LOS CABOS, WHERE THE PACIFIC MEETS THE SEA OF CORTEZ
The extraordinary Land's End rock arch of Los Cabos marks the southernmost tip of the Baja peninsula where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez collide in extraordinary tide lines visible from the beach. El Arco de Cabo San Lucas is the most photographed rock formation in Mexico after the Popocatepetl volcano. Glass-bottom boat tours to the arch from the Cabo San Lucas marina approx 200 pesos. The snorkelling at the adjacent Pelican Rock is extraordinary. Drive/Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
THE CORRIDOR AND PLAYA BALANDRA, THE FINEST BEACH IN MEXICO
Playa Balandra near La Paz is consistently voted the finest beach in Mexico, its extraordinary shallow turquoise lagoon protected by a sandy headland creating bathing conditions of extraordinary clarity and calm in the Sea of Cortez. The extraordinary mushroom rock formation balanced on a narrow stem is the finest natural sculpture in Baja. Entry free. No facilities. Bring provisions. The 7am light on the water is extraordinary. Drive/Travel: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
LA PAZ AND THE SEA OF CORTEZ WHALE SHARK SNORKELLING
La Paz is the finest city on the Sea of Cortez, its extraordinary malecon promenade, independent restaurants and the year-round presence of whale sharks in the bay making it the finest base in southern Baja. Snorkelling with whale sharks from La Paz is the most extraordinary marine experience in Mexico. The sharks, up to 12 metres long, are entirely harmless filter feeders. Tours from La Paz approx 1,500 pesos including equipment.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Isla Espiritu Santo near La Paz is one of the most extraordinary uninhabited islands in Mexico, a UNESCO biosphere reserve of red volcanic rock, turquoise bays and extraordinary sea lion colonies in the Sea of Cortez. The kayaking around the island, camping on its extraordinary beaches and snorkelling with the friendly sea lion colony at Los Islotes are all extraordinary. Day tours from La Paz approx 1,200 pesos. Overnight camping permits available.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cabo San Lucas marina Fresh pastries and extraordinary coffee at the marina before the glass-bottom boat tour. | Lunch: Mariscos El Toro Guero, La Paz The finest seafood restaurant in La Paz. Outstanding aguachile and whole grilled fish. | Dinner: Rancho Viejo, La Paz Outstanding traditional Baja cuisine. The extraordinary Sinaloa-style smoked marlin is the finest in Baja.
DAY 4
CABO PULMO AND THE EAST CAPE
MORNING
CABO PULMO NATIONAL MARINE PARK, THE FINEST REEF IN THE EASTERN PACIFIC
Cabo Pulmo contains the only hard coral reef in the eastern Pacific, a UNESCO World Heritage marine park that has recovered from near-total destruction to become one of the richest reef ecosystems in the world. Bull sharks, hammerheads, manta rays, whale sharks and enormous schools of jack fish create one of the most extraordinary snorkelling and diving experiences available anywhere. Guided snorkel tours from Cabo Pulmo village approx 800 pesos. Drive/Travel: 1.5 hours drive
MIDDAY
THE EAST CAPE, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY UNDEVELOPED COAST IN BAJA
The East Cape between Cabo Pulmo and Los Cabos is 100km of the most extraordinary undeveloped coastline in Mexico, its extraordinary desert meeting the Sea of Cortez at remote beaches accessible only by dirt road. Playa Los Frailes, Playa La Fortuna and the extraordinary Shipwreck Beach are all entirely undeveloped and free. The snorkelling, fishing and complete isolation of the East Cape are unlike anywhere else on the peninsula. Drive/Travel: 2 hours drive
AFTERNOON
TODOS SANTOS, THE ART AND SURF VILLAGE OF THE PACIFIC COAST
Todos Santos on the Pacific coast is the finest art and surf village in Baja California, its extraordinary colonial architecture, gallery-filled streets and the legendary Hotel California making it the most celebrated small town in the peninsula. The extraordinary Playa Los Cerritos nearby is the finest surf beach in southern Baja, consistent for all levels. The extraordinary weekly art walk through the galleries is free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Whale Shark aggregation site at Bahia de los Angeles on the northern Sea of Cortez is one of the most extraordinary and least visited in Baja, a remote bay 4 hours from Ensenada where whale sharks aggregate year-round in extraordinary numbers. The snorkelling here, completely free of the tour boat infrastructure of La Paz, is the most extraordinary and intimate whale shark experience in Mexico. Local guides approx 600 pesos. Camping on the bay beach is free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cabo Pulmo village cafe Simple breakfast in the extraordinary remote village before the 8am snorkel departure. | Lunch: East Cape beach provisions Buy tostadas and agua fresca from the East Cape roadside vendors. Remote coast has no restaurants. | Dinner: Shut Up Franks, Todos Santos The finest bar and grill in Todos Santos. Outstanding craft beer and extraordinary fish tacos.
DAY 5
THE BAJA HIGHWAY
MORNING
THE BAJA PENINSULA ROAD TRIP, HIGHWAY 1 THROUGH THE DESERT
driving Highway 1, the 1,300km Transpeninsular Highway from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas completed in 1973, is the finest road trip in North America, passing through extraordinary Sonoran Desert with cardon cacti taller than 15 metres, the Sierra de San Pedro Martir with its extraordinary pine forests and the most extraordinary coastal desert landscape on earth. The drive through the Llano de Magdalena plain at dawn is extraordinary. Rental car essential. Drive/Travel: 2 hours drive
MIDDAY
CATAVINA AND THE EXTRAORDINARY CACTUS FOREST OF CENTRAL BAJA
The Catavina boulder fields in central Baja are the most extraordinary desert landscape in Mexico, a vast plain of enormous granite boulders draped with extraordinary cirio boojum trees found nowhere else on earth, their extraordinary upside-down carrot shapes rising to 20 metres. The Catavina cave paintings trail leads to extraordinary rock art in the boulders. The extraordinary Hotel Mision Santa Maria in the oasis is the finest remote hotel in Baja. Drive/Travel: 2 hours drive
AFTERNOON
SAN FELIPE AND THE SEA OF CORTEZ TIDAL FLATS
San Felipe on the northern Sea of Cortez has the most extraordinary tidal range in the Gulf, up to 7 metres, exposing vast tidal flats that stretch for kilometres at low tide. The extraordinary colour of the water, the Sierra San Pedro Martir mountains above and the fishing village atmosphere make it the finest undeveloped resort town in northern Baja. The extraordinary clam ceviche from the beachside stalls is the finest in Baja. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Valle de los Cirios, the Valley of the Cirio Trees, stretches for 200km through central Baja and contains the most extraordinary concentration of the boojum tree found nowhere else on earth. The extraordinary inverted carrot-shaped trees, which can live for 700 years, grow to 20 metres in the extraordinary Sonoran Desert. The UNESCO-protected valley at dawn with the extraordinary cacti silhouetted against the pink sky is one of the finest landscapes in North America. Entry free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Catavina hotel breakfast Outstanding simple Mexican breakfast at the extraordinary desert oasis hotel before the morning drive. | Lunch: Highway 1 roadside taco Buy extraordinary fish tacos from the roadside stands near El Rosario. The best on the peninsula. | Dinner: Mariscos Las Muertas, San Felipe Outstanding fresh Sea of Cortez seafood. The extraordinary tostadas de jaiba blue crab are legendary.
Where To Stay
Ensenada, Night 1 Hotel Coral and Marina or Las Rosas. Approx 60 to 150 USD per night. Loreto, Night 2 La Mision de Loreto. Approx 80 to 160 USD. Finest location on the Sea of Cortez. La Paz, Nights 3 to 4 Hotel CostaBaja or Posada Luna Sol. Approx 60 to 150 USD per night. Todos Santos, Night 5 Hotel California or Todos Santos Inn. Approx 80 to 200 USD per night.
Top Tips
1. Cabo Pulmo reef: go early. The bull shark aggregation and jack fish schools are most extraordinary at 8am.
2. East Cape dirt roads: check conditions locally before driving. Rain makes them impassable for regular cars.
3. Catavina boojum forest: dawn and dusk light is extraordinary. Stay at Hotel Mision Santa Maria in the oasis.
4. San Felipe tidal flats: check tide tables. The 7-metre tidal range means the flats appear and disappear daily.
5. Highway 1 fuel: fill up at every opportunity. Stations can be 200km apart in central Baja. Carry a reserve.
6. Todos Santos Hotel California: buy the obligatory margarita. The story of the Eagles song connection is extraordinary.
Total Budget
85 to 255 USD/day