Baja
3
Day Itinerary •
Mexico
Three days in Baja California reveal the most extraordinary desert peninsula in North America. The wine valleys and sea geysers of Ensenada, the gray whale calving lagoons of San Ignacio where the whales approach your boat voluntarily, the Land's End rock arch of Cabo San Lucas, the finest beach in Mexico at Playa Balandra and the year-round whale shark snorkelling at La Paz are all within a single peninsula road trip. This route drives south along Baja's extraordinary 1,300km backbone, beginning in the wine country of the Valle de Guadalupe before crossing to the Pacific coast whale lagoons and returning to the extraordinary Sea of Cortez for the finest beach and marine wildlife experiences in Mexico. Three days on the extraordinary desert peninsula that Jacques Cousteau called the aquarium of the world.
Best Time To Visit
October to June
Getting There
Fly into Los Cabos (SJD) or Tijuana (TIJ)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout, Mexican insurance required
Budget Per Day
Approx 85 to 235 USD per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, long drives
DAY 1
ENSENADA AND THE WINE VALLEY
MORNING
ENSENADA AND THE VALLE DE GUADALUPE WINE ROUTE
The Valle de Guadalupe 30km from Ensenada is the most extraordinary wine region in Mexico, producing internationally celebrated wines from 150 wineries in a landscape of granite boulders, olive trees and Mexican chapparal. The extraordinary outdoor restaurants of Fauna, Corazon de Tierra and Malva serve the finest food in Baja California. The Ruta del Vino wine trail through the valley is the finest in Latin America. Wine tastings from approx 150 pesos. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive to coast
MIDDAY
ENSENADA HARBOUR AND LA BUFADORA, THE GREATEST SEA GEYSER IN THE AMERICAS
La Bufadora 30km south of Ensenada is the most powerful marine blowhole in North America, a sea geyser in a narrow rock channel that erupts to 30 metres every few minutes with an extraordinary roar. The drive along the Punta Banda peninsula through dramatic Pacific coastline to reach it is itself extraordinary. Entry approx 20 pesos. The seafood stalls at the entrance sell the finest smoked tuna tostadas in Baja. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
ENSENADA FISH MARKET AND THE BAJA STREET FOOD SCENE
The Mercado Negro fish market in Ensenada is the finest in Baja California, its extraordinary tuna, lobster, abalone and sea urchin fresh off the boats every morning. The taco stands along Avenida Ruiz serve the original fish taco, invented in Ensenada, still the finest in the world. The extraordinary Hussong's Cantina, claiming to be the birthplace of the margarita in 1941, is the finest historic bar in Baja. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ruta del Vino cycling trail through the Valle de Guadalupe is one of the most extraordinary cycling experiences in Mexico, a 20km route through vineyards and olive groves connecting the finest small producers in the valley. Bicycle hire from the valley entrance approx 200 pesos. The extraordinary craft beer scene in the valley, centred on the Cerveceria Wendlandt, rivals the wine. The sunset over the granite boulders from the upper valley is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Valle de Guadalupe cafe Coffee and pan dulce at the extraordinary morning market in the wine valley before the wineries open. | Lunch: Fauna, Valle de Guadalupe The finest restaurant in Baja California. Extraordinary wine country cuisine. Book weeks ahead. | Dinner: El Rey Sol, Ensenada The finest traditional Baja and French cuisine in Ensenada since 1947. Extraordinary lobster.
DAY 2
GRAY WHALE WATCHING
MORNING
WHALE WATCHING AT SAN IGNACIO LAGOON, THE GREATEST WILDLIFE EXPERIENCE IN MEXICO
The San Ignacio Lagoon on the Pacific coast of Baja Sur is the most extraordinary wildlife experience in Mexico and one of the finest in the world. Gray whales come to this protected lagoon every January to April to give birth and raise their calves in water so shallow they are visible from the boat. The whales approach the pangas voluntarily to be touched, an extraordinary and entirely unique behaviour. Permits required, tours from approx 2,000 pesos. Drive/Travel: 2 hours drive
MIDDAY
THE VIZCAINO BIOSPHERE RESERVE, THE LARGEST PROTECTED AREA IN LATIN AMERICA
The Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve surrounding San Ignacio Lagoon is the largest protected natural area in Latin America, covering 2.5 million hectares of extraordinary Sonoran Desert, Pacific coastline and Sea of Cortez islands. The extraordinary Sierra de San Francisco cave paintings, painted by the Cochimi people between 100BC and AD1300, are a UNESCO World Heritage site accessible by mule from San Ignacio. Entry approx 100 pesos. Drive/Travel: 3 hours drive south
AFTERNOON
LORETO, THE OLDEST PERMANENT SETTLEMENT IN BAJA CALIFORNIA
Loreto on the Sea of Cortez is the oldest permanent Spanish settlement in Baja California, its extraordinary Mission Nuestra Senora de Loreto founded in 1697 the oldest in the peninsula. The extraordinary turquoise Sea of Cortez at Loreto with its backdrop of the Sierra de la Giganta mountains is the most beautiful coastal setting in Baja. The Loreto Bay marine park snorkelling is the finest on the Sea of Cortez. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Misiones of Baja California form the most extraordinary and least visited historical trail in Mexico, a chain of 23 Jesuit and Franciscan missions founded between 1697 and 1834 across the entire 1,300km length of the peninsula. The mission at San Borja, 60km from the Pacific coast on a dirt road through extraordinary desert, is the most intact and atmospheric, its 18th-century stone church still standing in a remote oasis. Entry free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: San Ignacio village store Simple provisions before the early morning whale watching departure. The village is extraordinary in the dawn light. | Lunch: Restaurant in San Ignacio Outstanding local Baja food in the extraordinary oasis village beneath the date palms. | Dinner: El Nido, Loreto The finest traditional restaurant in Loreto. Outstanding mesquite-grilled beef and Sea of Cortez fish.
DAY 3
LOS CABOS AND LA PAZ
MORNING
LOS CABOS, WHERE THE PACIFIC MEETS THE SEA OF CORTEZ
The extraordinary Land's End rock arch of Los Cabos marks the southernmost tip of the Baja peninsula where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez collide in extraordinary tide lines visible from the beach. El Arco de Cabo San Lucas is the most photographed rock formation in Mexico after the Popocatepetl volcano. Glass-bottom boat tours to the arch from the Cabo San Lucas marina approx 200 pesos. The snorkelling at the adjacent Pelican Rock is extraordinary. Drive/Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
THE CORRIDOR AND PLAYA BALANDRA, THE FINEST BEACH IN MEXICO
Playa Balandra near La Paz is consistently voted the finest beach in Mexico, its extraordinary shallow turquoise lagoon protected by a sandy headland creating bathing conditions of extraordinary clarity and calm in the Sea of Cortez. The extraordinary mushroom rock formation balanced on a narrow stem is the finest natural sculpture in Baja. Entry free. No facilities. Bring provisions. The 7am light on the water is extraordinary. Drive/Travel: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
LA PAZ AND THE SEA OF CORTEZ WHALE SHARK SNORKELLING
La Paz is the finest city on the Sea of Cortez, its extraordinary malecon promenade, independent restaurants and the year-round presence of whale sharks in the bay making it the finest base in southern Baja. Snorkelling with whale sharks from La Paz is the most extraordinary marine experience in Mexico. The sharks, up to 12 metres long, are entirely harmless filter feeders. Tours from La Paz approx 1,500 pesos including equipment.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Isla Espiritu Santo near La Paz is one of the most extraordinary uninhabited islands in Mexico, a UNESCO biosphere reserve of red volcanic rock, turquoise bays and extraordinary sea lion colonies in the Sea of Cortez. The kayaking around the island, camping on its extraordinary beaches and snorkelling with the friendly sea lion colony at Los Islotes are all extraordinary. Day tours from La Paz approx 1,200 pesos. Overnight camping permits available.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cabo San Lucas marina Fresh pastries and extraordinary coffee at the marina before the glass-bottom boat tour. | Lunch: Mariscos El Toro Guero, La Paz The finest seafood restaurant in La Paz. Outstanding aguachile and whole grilled fish. | Dinner: Rancho Viejo, La Paz Outstanding traditional Baja cuisine. The extraordinary Sinaloa-style smoked marlin is the finest in Baja.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Ensenada, Night 1 Hotel Coral and Marina or Las Rosas Hotel. Approx 60 to 150 USD. Loreto or La Paz, Night 2 La Mision de Loreto or Hotel CostaBaja La Paz. Approx 60 to 180 USD. La Paz, Night 3 Hotel CostaBaja or Posada Luna Sol. Approx 60 to 150 USD.
Top Tips
1. Gray whale watching at San Ignacio: book Kuyima ecocamp months ahead. January to April only. Extraordinary.
2. Playa Balandra near La Paz: go at 7am. The turquoise lagoon is completely still before the day visitors arrive.
3. Whale shark snorkelling at La Paz: year-round but best November to May. Book the evening before.
4. El Arco rock arch at Cabo: glass-bottom boat from the marina is 200 pesos and extraordinary at sunrise.
5. Valle de Guadalupe: book Fauna or Corazon de Tierra weeks ahead. Both are extraordinary and worth the effort.
6. Mexican car insurance is mandatory and cheap. Buy online before crossing the border. Approx 20 USD per day.
Total Budget
85 to 230 USD/day