Asturias
3
Day Itinerary •
Spain
Asturias is Spain's best-kept secret. A lush, green principality wedged between the Cantabrian Sea and the Picos de Europa mountains, it has its own cider culture, its own cheese tradition, pre-Romanesque architecture that predates anything in the rest of Spain, and a coastline of extraordinary hidden beaches almost entirely unknown outside the country. This 3-day route covers the wild heart of Asturias. The extraordinary pre-Romanesque churches of Oviedo that inspired UNESCO World Heritage status, the most dramatic mountain gorge in the Picos de Europa, a stretch of wild Atlantic coastline with hidden beaches and sea cave formations, and the cider culture that defines Asturian life from breakfast to midnight.
Best Time To Visit
June to September (greenest and warmest)
Getting There
Fly into Asturias Airport (OVD)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 65 to 105 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
OVIEDO
MORNING
SANTA MARIA DEL NARANCO, THE CHURCH ON THE MOUNTAIN
Two kilometres above Oviedo, on a green hillside with views over the city and mountains, stand two 9th-century pre-Romanesque buildings that predate virtually everything else in Spain. Santa Maria del Naranco was built as a royal palace in 842 AD and San Miguel de Lillo alongside it is one of the finest examples of pre-Romanesque architecture in Europe. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and almost entirely unknown internationally. Entry approx 3 euros each. Drive: 15 min drive back to Oviedo centre
MIDDAY
OVIEDO OLD TOWN, THE CATHEDRAL CITY THAT TIME FORGOT
Oviedo's medieval old town is one of the finest and most overlooked in northern Spain. The Gothic cathedral contains the Camara Santa, a pre-Romanesque chapel with the most important collection of early medieval religious art in the world, including the Cruz de los Angeles made in 808 AD. Wander the Plaza del Fontan, a beautiful arcaded square that has hosted a daily market for 700 years. Find the extraordinary covered market inside the arcades. Drive: 10 min walk to cider bars
AFTERNOON
EL FONTÁN CIDER DISTRICT, ASTURIAS IN A GLASS
Asturian cider (sidra) is poured from above the head in a thin stream to oxygenate it, a tradition unique to this region. The area around the Plaza del Fontan contains the highest density of traditional cider bars (sidrerias) in Asturias. Order a bottle of natural cider and watch the barman perform the pour from height. Eat the traditional accompaniment of chorizo cooked in cider and Cabrales blue cheese from the mountains.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Escultura del Paraguas, a giant bronze umbrella sculpture in Oviedo city centre, was donated by Woody Allen who described Oviedo as a delicious, exotic, and beautiful city. The surrounding streets contain dozens of bronze sculptures scattered throughout the old town, forming one of the most extensive public sculpture collections in Spain. All free, all outdoors.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Rialto, Oviedo The finest historic cafe in Oviedo. Excellent coffee and traditional Asturian pastries in a beautiful tiled room. | Lunch: Sidreria Casa Fermin, Oviedo One of Oviedo's most celebrated traditional restaurants. Fabada asturiana (bean and pork stew) and natural cider since 1924. | Dinner: Tierra Astur, Oviedo The most beloved sidreria in Oviedo. Enormous portions of Asturian classics, excellent cider and a lively local atmosphere.
DAY 2
PICOS DE EUROPA
MORNING
RUTA DEL CARES, THE DIVINE GORGE
The Cares Gorge is one of the most spectacular walks in Spain. A path carved into sheer limestone cliffs above the River Cares, running for 12km through the deepest part of the Picos de Europa. The gorge walls rise 1,000 metres on both sides. The full route takes 4 to 5 hours return from Poncebos. Start early to have the path to yourself in the morning light. Moderate difficulty, no technical equipment required. Drive: 45 min drive to Covadonga
MIDDAY
COVADONGA AND THE SACRED LAKES
Covadonga is the spiritual birthplace of Spain. The small basilica marks the site of the Battle of Covadonga in 722 AD where the Christian Reconquista began. Above the basilica, a winding mountain road climbs to two glacial lakes at 1,130 metres surrounded by limestone peaks. The Lagos de Covadonga at dawn or dusk are among the most beautiful landscapes in northern Spain. The road is closed to cars in summer, take the shuttle bus. Drive: 30 min drive to Bulnes
AFTERNOON
BULNES, THE VILLAGE ONLY REACHABLE BY FUNICULAR
Bulnes is one of the most extraordinary villages in Spain. Perched in a deep mountain gorge in the heart of the Picos, it was completely inaccessible by road until 2001 when a funicular tunnel was bored through the mountain. The village has 40 inhabitants and no cars. The funicular runs from Poncebos and the 7-minute ride through solid rock is followed by an extraordinary view of a medieval stone village clinging to the gorge wall.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Mirador del Pozo de la Oracion above Poncebos offers the finest aerial view of the Cares Gorge from above, looking straight down into the chasm where the path runs far below. A 20-minute walk from the car park and completely free. Most visitors go straight to the gorge path without discovering this viewpoint.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Arenas de Cabrales Stop for coffee and a tortilla in the village of Arenas before the Cares Gorge walk. Fuel up before the trail. | Lunch: Restaurante El Texu, Bulnes Eat lunch in Bulnes village after the funicular ride. Simple mountain food, local cheese and cider with extraordinary views. | Dinner: Sidreria in Cangas de Onis Return to the market town of Cangas de Onis for dinner. Famous for its Roman bridge and excellent Asturian sidrerias.
DAY 3
THE ASTURIAN COAST
MORNING
PLAYA DEL SILENCIO, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HIDDEN BEACH IN SPAIN
The Playa del Silencio is widely considered the most beautiful beach in Asturias and one of the finest in all of Spain. Reached only by a 20-minute walk down a steep path through eucalyptus forest, the beach is a perfect horseshoe of white sand backed by layered slate cliffs and rock formations. There are no facilities, no development and almost no noise except the waves. The name means Beach of Silence and it earns it. Drive: 20 min drive to Cudillero
MIDDAY
CUDILLERO, THE MOST COLOURFUL FISHING VILLAGE IN SPAIN
Cudillero is built in an extraordinary natural amphitheatre, with coloured houses stacked up the steep valley walls above a tiny harbour. The village can only be entered through a tunnel, emerging suddenly into a bowl of colour and activity that takes the breath away. The harbour is still fully working and the morning fish auction at the lonja is one of the most vivid local experiences in Asturias. Drive: 25 min drive to Cabo Penas
AFTERNOON
CABO PENAS, THE NORTHERNMOST POINT OF ASTURIAS
Cabo Penas is the most northerly point of Asturias and one of the finest coastal viewpoints in northern Spain. The lighthouse stands at the tip of a dramatic headland with 360-degree views over the Cantabrian Sea, the Asturian coast stretching east and west, and on exceptionally clear days the mountains of Galicia to the west. The surrounding cliffs are home to enormous colonies of seabirds.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The stretch of coast between Playa del Silencio and Luarca contains several more hidden beaches accessible only on foot, including the Playa de Arnao and Playa de Artedo. Both are reached via clifftop paths and have almost no visitors. The Asturian coast has over 40 beaches of this quality and most are completely unknown outside the region.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar near Playa del Silencio The nearest village of Castaneras has a small local bar. Grab coffee before the walk down to the beach. | Lunch: Casa Pirula, Cudillero The most celebrated fish restaurant in Cudillero, overlooking the harbour. Fresh catch and excellent local white wine. | Dinner: Restaurante Real Balneario, Salinas One of the finest seafood restaurants in Asturias, overlooking the beach at Salinas. Book well ahead.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Oviedo, Night 1 Hotel de la Reconquista, a stunning 18th-century baroque palace converted into a hotel. Approx 120 to 180 euros per night. Picos area, Night 2 Parador de Cangas de Onis, a converted 8th-century monastery by the Roman bridge. Approx 110 to 170 euros per night. Budget Option Oviedo: Hotel Favila from approx 50 euros. Picos area: rural casas de aldea (village houses) from approx 40 euros.
Top Tips
1. Start the Cares Gorge walk by 8am to have the path to yourself before the day visitors arrive.
2. Covadonga Lakes road closes to cars July to September. Take the shuttle bus from the village.
3. Asturian cider must be drunk immediately after pouring. Order by the bottle, not by the glass.
4. Playa del Silencio has no facilities. Bring water, food and leave no trace on the beach.
5. Bulnes funicular runs every 30 minutes from Poncebos. Last return is at 8pm in summer.
6. Cabrales blue cheese from the Picos de Europa is one of the strongest cheeses in the world. Try it.
Total Budget
80 to 130 euros/day