Aragon
3
Day Itinerary •
Spain
Aragon is one of Spain's most overlooked regions. A dramatic landscape stretching from the highest peaks in the Pyrenees down through ancient Moorish cities, medieval cliff villages, desert badlands and forgotten Romanesque churches. It sits between Catalonia and Castile yet receives a fraction of the visitors of either. This 3-day route covers the extraordinary sweep of Aragon. Zaragoza's magnificent Moorish palace hidden inside a later building, the Ordesa canyon that inspired the Pyrenean national park, medieval villages perched over river gorges, and the pre-Pyrenean foothills where some of the finest Romanesque art in Europe survives in tiny village churches completely off the tourist trail.
Best Time To Visit
May to October (mountains best June to September)
Getting There
Fly into Zaragoza (ZAZ) or Barcelona (BCN)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 65 to 105 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
ZARAGOZA
MORNING
ALJAFERIA PALACE, THE HIDDEN MOORISH MASTERPIECE
The Aljaferia is one of the most extraordinary and overlooked buildings in Spain. A spectacular 11th-century Moorish palace built by the kings of the Taifa of Zaragoza, containing some of the finest Islamic architecture outside Andalusia. But unlike the Alhambra it receives a fraction of the visitors and often has the extraordinary courtyard and golden prayer hall almost to yourself. Entry approx 5 euros. Arrive when it opens to experience it in near-solitude. Drive: 15 min walk to old town
MIDDAY
ZARAGOZA'S HIDDEN MOORISH QUARTER
Zaragoza was the capital of the Taifa of Zaragoza and its Moorish heritage runs much deeper than the Aljaferia. The old Jewish quarter around the Calle Mayor contains medieval synagogue foundations and hidden courtyards. Find the extraordinary Mudéjar towers of San Pablo and La Magdalena, UNESCO World Heritage Sites largely ignored by visitors who head straight to the basilica. The Mercado Central is one of the finest covered markets in Spain. Drive: 10 min walk to Ebro riverfront
AFTERNOON
THE EBRO RIVERFRONT AND EL TUBO TAPAS DISTRICT
Walk the Ebro riverfront below the basilica for the classic Zaragoza photograph, then dive into El Tubo, the city's extraordinary tapas district. A dense network of medieval streets containing some of the finest tapas bars in Aragon, almost entirely frequented by locals. Order the local specialty of migas aragonesas (fried breadcrumbs with chorizo and egg) and wash it down with local Carinena wine.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Museo del Foro de Caesaraugusta is located entirely underground beneath the Plaza de la Seo, containing the remarkably preserved remains of the Roman forum of ancient Zaragoza. Entry approx 4 euros and almost never visited. The scale of the Roman city visible underground is extraordinary and completely changes your understanding of the city above.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Zaragoza old town Several excellent historic cafes near the basilica. The terrace cafes on the Plaza del Pilar serve the finest coffee views. | Lunch: Restaurante Baltasar, Zaragoza Outstanding modern Aragonese restaurant in the old town. Local products, excellent wine list. Book ahead. | Dinner: El Tubo tapas bars Bar hop through El Tubo. Start at Bar Dorado for the finest gambas al ajillo in Zaragoza, then explore the surrounding streets.
DAY 2
ORDESA AND THE PYRENEES
MORNING
ORDESA CANYON, THE GRAND CANYON OF THE PYRENEES
The Ordesa Valley is one of the most spectacular landscapes in Spain and the heart of the Pyrenees National Park. The Senda de los Cazadores trail climbs from the valley floor up the canyon wall to the Cola de Caballo waterfall viewpoint, with extraordinary views of the canyon below. The canyon walls rise 1,000 metres on both sides. Start early as the car park fills by 9am in summer. Moderate difficulty. Drive: 30 min drive to Broto
MIDDAY
BROTO, THE GATEWAY VILLAGE TO ORDESA
Broto is a beautiful pre-Pyrenean village at the entrance to the Ordesa valley, largely overlooked by tourists who drive straight through to the national park. The arcaded main street, the medieval bridge over the Ara river and the Romanesque church tower are all extraordinary. The Thursday market in the plaza has operated since the Middle Ages. Drive: 20 min drive to Ainsa
AFTERNOON
AINSA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MEDIEVAL VILLAGE IN ARAGON
Ainsa is consistently ranked one of the most beautiful medieval villages in Spain. A perfectly preserved fortified village perched above the confluence of the Ara and Cinca rivers, with extraordinary views over the pre-Pyrenean landscape. The enormous arcaded Plaza Mayor is one of the finest in Aragon. The 11th-century church tower rises above the rooftops and can be climbed for views over the entire valley.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Circo de Soaso above the Ordesa valley contains one of the finest waterfall landscapes in Spain. The Cola de Caballo (Horse's Tail) waterfall drops 70 metres into the cirque floor, surrounded by 2,000-metre walls on three sides. The walk to the cirque takes 2.5 hours from the valley floor and is the finest walk in the Aragonese Pyrenees.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Torla village Stop for coffee in Torla, the last village before the national park. Fuel up before the canyon walk. | Lunch: Restaurante El Rebeco, Ainsa Outstanding restaurant in the medieval village. Local lamb, truffle dishes and excellent Somontano wines. | Dinner: Bodegon de Mallacin, Ainsa Most beloved restaurant in Ainsa. Traditional Aragonese cuisine in a medieval building with views over the valley.
DAY 3
PRE-PYRENEAN VILLAGES
MORNING
ALQUEZAR, THE CLIFF VILLAGE ABOVE THE CANYON
Alquezar is one of the most dramatically sited villages in Spain. Perched on a limestone cliff above the Vero river canyon, it was an important Moorish fortress before becoming a medieval Christian settlement. The collegiate church at the summit has 360-degree views over the canyon and surrounding sierras. Walk the canyon path below the village for the most extraordinary view of the cliff settlement from below. The Vero river canyon walk is one of the finest in Aragon. Drive: 30 min drive to Romanesque churches
MIDDAY
THE SERRABLO ROMANESQUE TRAIL
The foothills of the Aragones Pyrenees contain a concentration of 11th-century Romanesque churches known as the Serrablo group. These tiny stone churches in remote mountain villages are considered among the finest Romanesque buildings in Spain. The churches of San Juan de Busa, San Bartolome de Gavín and San Pedro de Lárrede are the most spectacular. Most are free to enter and completely unvisited. The drive through the foothills is beautiful. Drive: 20 min drive to Boltana
AFTERNOON
BOLTANA AND THE SOBRARBE CANYON WALK
Boltana is a beautifully preserved medieval town in the Ara valley with a ruined castle, an extraordinary Romanesque church and one of the finest traditional markets in the pre-Pyrenees every Sunday. Walk the gorge path downstream from the town through the limestone canyon carved by the Ara river for the most beautiful evening light in the Aragones foothills.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cañon del Vero below Alquezar contains prehistoric cave paintings in the Cueva de la Fuente del Trucho, the most important Palaeolithic art site in Aragon. Guided visits available in summer from the Alquezar tourist office for approx 6 euros. The canyon walk itself is free and extraordinary at any time of year.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Alquezar Several excellent cafes in the village square with views over the canyon. Coffee before the morning walk. | Lunch: Restaurante Callizo, Ainsa One of the finest restaurants in Aragon, in the medieval village. Local produce, wild mushrooms and Somontano wines. Book ahead. | Dinner: Fonda de Boltana Traditional village restaurant in Boltana serving outstanding Aragonese mountain cuisine at honest prices.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Zaragoza, Night 1 Hotel Palafox, the finest hotel in Zaragoza near the old town. Approx 90 to 150 euros per night. Ainsa, Night 2 Hotel Los Arcos de Ainsa, inside the medieval village walls. Approx 80 to 130 euros per night. Budget Option Zaragoza: Hotel Las Torres from approx 50 euros. Ainsa: several rural casas rurales from approx 45 euros.
Top Tips
1. Ordesa car park fills by 9am in July and August. Arrive before 8am or take the shuttle from Torla.
2. The Aljaferia Palace in Zaragoza is best visited when it opens to experience it near-empty.
3. Ainsa medieval village is pedestrianised. Park outside the walls and walk in through the gate.
4. The Serrablo Romanesque churches are often locked. Contact the local heritage office for key access.
5. Alquezar canyon walk requires non-slip footwear. The river crossing can be wet in spring.
6. Somontano wine from the Barbastro area is Aragon's finest. Order it at every restaurant you visit.
Total Budget
70 to 115 euros/day