Alsace
5
Day Itinerary •
France
Five days in Alsace lets you explore the full extraordinary length of France's most distinctive border region, from the magnificent Gothic cathedral of Strasbourg to the extraordinary wine villages of the central Route des Vins, the Isenheim Altarpiece in Colmar, the extraordinary Vosges mountains and the finest Riesling and Pinot Gris grand crus in the world. This route covers the complete Alsace. The extraordinary pink sandstone cathedral of Strasbourg, the half-timbered La Petite France quarter, the Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg, the extraordinary wine villages of Ribeauville, Riquewihr and Eguisheim, the magnificent Colmar, the extraordinary Ballons des Vosges Regional Park and the finest winstub cooking tradition in Europe.
Best Time To Visit
May to June, September to October, or December for Christmas markets
Getting There
TGV from Paris Gare de l'Est to Strasbourg in 1hr 47min
Getting Around
Rental car recommended throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 90 to 150 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
STRASBOURG
MORNING
STRASBOURG CATHEDRAL, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY GOTHIC SPIRE IN FRANCE
The Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg is the most extraordinary Gothic cathedral in France, its extraordinary single pink sandstone spire at 142 metres the tallest building in the world from 1647 to 1874. The astronomical clock of 1574 performs its mechanical procession at 12.30 daily. The facade carvings and the rose window are unmissable. The platform viewpoint gives extraordinary views over Alsace and the Black Forest. Entry approx 2 euros. Drive: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
LA PETITE FRANCE AND THE PONTS COUVERTS
La Petite France is the most extraordinary medieval quarter in Strasbourg, its half-timbered tanner's houses reflected in four channels of the Ill in extraordinary condition. The Ponts Couverts with their three medieval towers and the Barrage Vauban give the finest view over the rooftops and spire. The Grande Ile is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The winstub tradition of Alsace dining is best experienced here. Free. Drive: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE NEUSTADT AND THE EUROPEAN QUARTER
The extraordinary Neustadt of Strasbourg, built by the German Empire after 1871, is the finest Wilhelmine urban district in France, its extraordinary boulevards of Neo-Renaissance palaces around the Place de la Republique entirely unknown to most visitors. The European Parliament and European Court of Human Rights nearby are extraordinary modern buildings. The Neustadt was added to the UNESCO World Heritage listing in 2017. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Palais Rohan in Strasbourg, built as the bishop's palace in 1742, contains three separate museums in one extraordinary building: the Musee des Arts Decoratifs with the finest faience in France, the Musee des Beaux-Arts and the extraordinary Musee Archeologique. Overlooked by visitors heading for the cathedral. Combined entry approx 7 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Patisserie Naegel, Strasbourg Coffee and kugelhopf before the cathedral opens. The finest Alsatian breakfast in Strasbourg. | Lunch: Chez Yvonne, Strasbourg The most celebrated winstub in Strasbourg. Extraordinary choucroute garnie and Riesling by the glass. | Dinner: Au Crocodile, Strasbourg Two Michelin stars. Finest restaurant in Alsace. Extraordinary local produce and Alsace Grand Cru wines.
DAY 2
HAUT-KOENIGSBOURG AND THE WINE VILLAGES
MORNING
CHATEAU DU HAUT-KOENIGSBOURG, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY CASTLE IN ALSACE
The Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg on its extraordinary 757-metre sandstone peak above the Rhine plain is the finest medieval castle in Alsace, restored by Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1908 to the most complete medieval interior of any castle in France. The view from the keep over the Rhine plain to the Black Forest and south to the Alps on clear days is extraordinary. The medieval great hall and the extraordinary keep are unmissable. Entry approx 9 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
RIBEAUVILLE, THE FINEST AUTHENTIC WINE TOWN ON THE ROUTE DES VINS
Ribeauville is the most authentic wine town on the Route des Vins, its extraordinary main street beneath three ruined castles on the Vosges above. The Tour des Bouchers, the Grand Rue fountains and the Riesling from the extraordinary Geisberg Grand Cru are the finest in Ribeauville. The town has fewer tourist coaches than its neighbours and retains an extraordinary everyday Alsatian character. Drive: 15 min drive
AFTERNOON
RIQUEWIHR AND THE GRAND CRU VINEYARDS
Riquewihr is the most extraordinary and best-preserved medieval wine village in France, its 16th-century ramparts enclosing a single street of perfectly coloured half-timbered houses unchanged since the Thirty Years War. The Dolder tower, the Tour des Voleurs and the extraordinary Grand Cru Schoenenbourg vineyard immediately outside the walls are all unmissable. Buy Riesling directly from Hugel or Dopff.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary ruined castles of Saint-Ulrich, Girsberg and Haut-Ribeaupierre above Ribeauville are the finest trio of medieval ruins in Alsace. The 45-minute hike from the town gives the finest view over the Route des Vins and the Rhine plain beyond. Free. Almost entirely unknown to visitors who stay in the village streets below.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Ribeauville Coffee and bretzel before the castle road opens in the morning. | Lunch: Zum Pfifferhus, Ribeauville Outstanding winstub beneath three castles. Local baeckeoffe, tarte flambee and Riesling. | Dinner: Au Tire-Bouchon, Riquewihr Extraordinary Alsatian cuisine in the most beautiful village in France. Grand Cru wine list.
DAY 3
COLMAR
MORNING
COLMAR OLD TOWN, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CITY IN ALSACE
Colmar is the most extraordinary and beautiful small city in Alsace, its old town of coloured half-timbered houses better preserved than anywhere else in the region. The extraordinary Pfister House of 1537, the Maison des Tetes, the Dominican church with Schongauer's extraordinary Madonna of the Rose Bower and the market square are all unmissable. The city was largely spared wartime destruction and its extraordinary preservation is remarkable. Free. Drive: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
THE UNTERLINDEN MUSEUM AND THE ISENHEIM ALTARPIECE
The Musee Unterlinden contains the Isenheim Altarpiece by Matthias Grunewald, the most extraordinary and emotionally devastating painting in northern Europe. Commissioned in 1512 for a hospital treating plague and skin diseases, its polyptych of the tormented Crucifixion is the finest piece of German Renaissance painting in existence. The museum's Romanesque cloister and the rest of the collection are also extraordinary. Entry approx 13 euros. Drive: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
LA PETITE VENISE AND THE WINE QUARTER
La Petite Venise of Colmar, its extraordinary coloured houses reflected in the Lauch canal, is the most photographed quarter of Alsace. The quai de la Poissonnerie with its flower-decked facades is extraordinary at any season. The wine quarter around the rue des Marchands has the finest wine merchants in Alsace. The Bartholdi Museum in the birthplace of the Statue of Liberty sculptor is an extraordinary surprise. Entry approx 6 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary village of Turckheim 5km west of Colmar is the finest fortified wine village in Alsace, its three extraordinary medieval gates entirely intact and a night watchman still making his rounds each evening at 10pm from May to October, announcing the hour with a lantern and a halberd. The oldest continuously active watchman tradition in France. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Patisserie Gilg, Colmar Coffee and kugelhopf in the finest patisserie in Colmar before the Unterlinden opens. | Lunch: JY'S, Colmar One Michelin star. Extraordinary modern Alsatian cuisine in the finest restaurant in Colmar. | Dinner: Winstub Brenner, Colmar Outstanding traditional winstub. Baeckeoffe, munster cheese fondue and Gewurztraminer.
DAY 4
MUNSTER AND THE VOSGES
MORNING
MUNSTER, THE VALLEY OF THE EXTRAORDINARY CHEESE
The Vallee de Munster is the most extraordinary valley in the Vosges, its extraordinary farmhouses producing the finest washed-rind Munster cheese in France from the milk of Vosgiennes cows grazed on the remarkable high pastures. The small town of Munster with its Protestant church and remarkable Saturday market is the finest in the valley. Visit a fermier producer in the valley for an extraordinary tasting. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
ROUTE DES CRETES, THE EXTRAORDINARY VOSGES RIDGE ROAD
The Route des Cretes runs for 70km along the crest of the Vosges mountains from Cernay to Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines, its extraordinary viewpoints giving panoramic views over the Rhine plain and the Black Forest. The Grand Ballon at 1,424 metres is the highest point in the Vosges and gives the most extraordinary panorama. The route passes extraordinary lakes, chalets and cattle farms. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE BALLONS DES VOSGES AND THE LAC DE GERARDMER
The Lac de Gerardmer is the most extraordinary natural lake in the Vosges, its extraordinary forested shores and mountain setting entirely different from the flat Alsace plain below. The village of Gerardmer with its extraordinary woollen textile tradition and the walk around the lake are outstanding. The Vosges fir forests above the lake are the finest in the region. The extraordinary drive back over the Col de la Schlucht is unmissable.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Lac Blanc and Lac Noir above the Col du Bonhomme in the northern Vosges are the finest hidden mountain lakes in Alsace, their extraordinary granite cirque setting entirely unknown to visitors on the Route des Vins below. The 2-hour walk from the Col du Bonhomme car park visits both lakes. Free. The finest hidden walk in the Vosges.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Munster Coffee in the market town before visiting a Munster cheese farm in the valley. | Lunch: Auberge du Schiesrothried, Vosges Extraordinary mountain auberge lunch. Local Munster, baeckeoffe and Pinot Noir. | Dinner: Les Reflets, Gerardmer Outstanding lakeside dinner. Local trout, Vosges mushrooms and Alsace Pinot Gris.
DAY 5
EGUISHEIM AND MULHOUSE
MORNING
EGUISHEIM, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY CIRCULAR VILLAGE IN FRANCE
Eguisheim is the finest circular medieval village in Alsace, its extraordinary concentric streets of coloured half-timbered houses encircling the 13th-century octagonal castle entirely surrounded by Grand Cru Eichberg and Pfersigberg vineyards. White storks nest on every rooftop from April to August. Voted the favourite village in France. Saint Leon IX, the only Alsatian pope, was born here in 1002. Fewer coaches than Riquewihr. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
MULHOUSE, THE EXTRAORDINARY INDUSTRIAL MUSEUM CAPITAL OF FRANCE
Mulhouse is the most extraordinary industrial museum city in France, its extraordinary Cite de l'Automobile containing the largest collection of cars in the world including 98 Bugattis, and its extraordinary Cite du Train the finest railway museum in Europe. The old town with its extraordinary painted Rathaus, the only Swiss-style town hall in France, is a remarkable surprise. Entry to automobile museum approx 14 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE RHINE AND THE SUNDGAU
The Sundgau is the most extraordinary and least-known sub-region of Alsace, its extraordinary rolling landscape of carp ponds, half-timbered villages and orchards south of Mulhouse entirely without tourists. The Rhine at Chalampé gives extraordinary views across to Germany and downstream to the hydroelectric works at Kembs. The village of Oltingue with its extraordinary regional museum is the finest in the Sundgau. Entry to museum approx 4 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Ecomusee d'Alsace at Ungersheim near Mulhouse is the largest open-air museum in France, its extraordinary 70 hectares of reconstructed Alsatian village life from the 15th to 20th centuries including 70 traditional buildings relocated stone by stone from across the region. Working craftsmen, storks and Vosgiennes cattle make it the finest living museum in France. Entry approx 16 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Eguisheim Coffee in the finest circular village in France before the coaches arrive. | Lunch: Le Caveau d'Eguisheim Outstanding winstub in the finest village. Local tarte flambee and Eguisheim Grand Cru. | Dinner: Le Poivre et Sel, Mulhouse Extraordinary creative cuisine in the industrial museum capital. Local produce and Alsace wine list.
Where To Stay
Strasbourg, Night 1 Hotel Regent Petite France or Hotel Cour du Corbeau. Approx 110 to 200 euros. Ribeauville or Riquewihr, Nights 2 to 3 Hotel de la Tour Ribeauville or hotel in Colmar old town. Approx 80 to 150 euros. Munster or Mulhouse, Nights 4 to 5 Hotel Verte Vallee Munster or Hotel du Parc Mulhouse. Approx 80 to 130 euros.
Top Tips
1. Strasbourg cathedral at 7am, light through the rose window before opening, is an extraordinary experience.
2. Riquewihr on a weekday morning before coaches arrive is the most beautiful street scene in France.
3. Tarte flambee in a winstub, never a tourist restaurant, is the finest quick meal in Alsace. Order two.
4. Alsace Riesling Grand Cru from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht or Weinbach is the finest white wine in France.
5. The Route des Cretes along the Vosges ridge gives extraordinary views over the Rhine plain to the Black Forest.
6. White storks are extraordinary in Eguisheim and Kientzheim from April to August. The nests are on every roof.
Total Budget
90 to 150 euros/day