Albanian Riviera
3
Day Itinerary •
Albania
Three days on the Albanian Riviera takes you along one of the finest and least discovered coastlines in the Mediterranean, a sequence of extraordinary turquoise coves, cliff villages, ancient ruins and wild beaches backed by the mountains of the Albanian interior that rivals anything on the Greek or Croatian coasts at a fraction of the price. This route covers the complete Albanian Riviera from Vlora to Saranda. The extraordinary Llogara Pass with its panorama over the Ionian Sea, the hidden beach of Gjipe Canyon, the village of Dhermi clinging to the cliff above the sea, the ancient ruins of Butrint above the lagoon and the extraordinary Ksamil islands with Corfu just 15km across the water.
Best Time To Visit
May to October
Getting There
Fly into Tirana (TIA), drive 3 hours to Dhermi
Getting Around
Rental car essential; coast road is spectacular
Budget Per Day
Approx 30 to 60 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
LLOGARA PASS AND DHERMI
MORNING
LLOGARA PASS, THE GATEWAY TO THE ALBANIAN RIVIERA
The Llogara Pass at 1,027 metres is the finest mountain road in Albania, the gateway between the Albanian interior and the Ionian coast. The drive up from Vlora climbs through extraordinary pine forest with progressively wider views until the pass opens to a panorama over the entire Albanian Riviera, the Ionian Sea, the island of Corfu and on the clearest days the mountains of Greece beyond. Stop at every viewpoint on the descent. The National Park cafe at the pass serves extraordinary local lamb. Free. Drive: 45 min drive south
MIDDAY
GJIPE CANYON BEACH, THE FINEST HIDDEN BEACH ON THE RIVIERA
The Gjipe Canyon beach at the base of an extraordinary limestone gorge between Palasa and Dhermi is the finest hidden beach on the Albanian Riviera, accessible only by a 30-minute hike down the canyon from the road. The beach at the canyon mouth is a perfect crescent of pebble in an extraordinary turquoise bay backed by sheer limestone cliffs. The water clarity is extraordinary and the beach is always quieter than the main riviera beaches. Free to access. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
DHERMI VILLAGE AND THE EVENING CLIFF VIEW
Dhermi is the finest cliff village on the Albanian Riviera, its traditional Albanian houses spilling down the mountainside above the sea with extraordinary views over the Ionian from every terrace. The old village above the beach road is a maze of cobbled lanes and stone houses largely unchanged for centuries. The beach below, reached by a winding road, is one of the longest and most beautiful on the riviera. The evening light from the village terrace over the sea is extraordinary.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Palasa beach north of Dhermi is one of the finest completely undeveloped beaches on the Albanian Riviera, a long pebble crescent with extraordinarily clear water and almost no facilities. A rough track from the road leads to the beach in 10 minutes. Almost entirely unknown to foreign visitors despite being extraordinary. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe at Llogara Pass Coffee and local byrek at the extraordinary mountain pass before the descent. | Lunch: Beach bar at Gjipe Simple fresh fish at the canyon beach bar. Extraordinarily fresh and very cheap. | Dinner: Restaurant in Dhermi Local seafood, fresh Albanian white wine and the extraordinary cliff view at dusk.
DAY 2
HIMARA TO SARANDA
MORNING
HIMARA, THE FINEST TOWN ON THE NORTHERN RIVIERA
Himara is the most extraordinary town on the northern Albanian Riviera, its old Byzantine citadel town on the cliff above the sea and a modern beach town below. The old town climb takes 20 minutes through extraordinary narrow lanes to the Byzantine walls and the Church of St Theodore with its remarkable frescoes. The view from the citadel over the bay and the Ionian Sea is extraordinary. The Himara beach below is one of the finest on the northern riviera. Citadel free. Drive: 30 min drive south
MIDDAY
PORTO PALERMO CASTLE, HOXHA'S SECRET SUBMARINE BASE
Porto Palermo Castle on a small peninsula in the extraordinary Porto Palermo bay is one of the most remarkable castles on the Albanian Riviera, an 18th-century Ottoman castle built by Ali Pasha of Ioannina that Enver Hoxha later used as a secret submarine base during the Cold War. The Soviet-era submarine tunnels cut into the rock behind the castle are extraordinary. The bay itself is one of the finest natural anchorages on the Ionian coast. Entry approx 200 ALL. Drive: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
BORSH BEACH, THE LONGEST BEACH IN ALBANIA
Borsh beach between Porto Palermo and Saranda is the longest beach in Albania, a 7km stretch of pebble and sand backed by olive groves and the mountains above. The beach is almost entirely undeveloped at its southern end and the water is extraordinarily clear. The Borsh castle on the hill above the beach gives extraordinary views along the entire southern Albanian coast. Swimming here with the mountains behind and the island of Corfu on the horizon is the finest natural beach experience on the riviera.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The village of Qeparo on the cliff above the coast between Himara and Porto Palermo is one of the finest and most completely abandoned traditional Albanian villages on the riviera, its extraordinary stone houses largely intact but almost entirely empty since the 1990s. The walk through the village and the view over the sea from the old church is extraordinary. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse in Dhermi Breakfast on the terrace with the extraordinary Ionian view before the road south. | Lunch: Cafe at Porto Palermo Coffee and local byrek at the extraordinary bay before the castle visit. | Dinner: Seafood restaurant, Saranda Fresh Ionian seafood on the Saranda waterfront with Corfu across the water.
DAY 3
BUTRINT AND KSAMIL
MORNING
BUTRINT, UNESCO CITY OF EXTRAORDINARY LAYERS
Butrint is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the Mediterranean, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian layers all visible on a single peninsula above a lagoon. The Greek theatre, Roman baths, early Byzantine baptistery with the finest floor mosaic in Albania and the extraordinary Venetian tower are all within a 30-minute circuit. The site is almost never crowded and the setting above the extraordinary Butrint lagoon is outstanding. Entry approx 700 ALL. Drive: 30 min drive north
MIDDAY
KSAMIL ISLANDS, THE FINEST BEACH DESTINATION IN ALBANIA
The Ksamil islands just north of Butrint are the finest natural beach destination in Albania, four small islands in an extraordinary turquoise lagoon accessible by short boat trips from the village shore. The public beaches at Ksamil have extraordinarily clear water and views across to the Greek island of Corfu just 15km away. The beach bars serve fresh grilled fish and local beer at prices that are extraordinary by any Mediterranean standard. Boat hire from shore approx 500 ALL return. Drive: 10 min drive
AFTERNOON
SARANDA WATERFRONT AND LEKURESI CASTLE VIEW
Saranda is the principal town of the Albanian Riviera, its curved bay and seafront promenade overlooking the Ionian Sea with Corfu across the water. The Lekuresi Castle on the hill above gives the finest panoramic view on the southern Albanian coast. The afternoon walk along the Saranda promenade, with the extraordinary combination of Albanian coastal life, Greek island views and extraordinary cheap seafood, is one of the finest endings to a riviera drive in the Mediterranean.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The ferry from Saranda to Corfu departs several times daily and takes 35 minutes. A half-day on Corfu and back gives an extraordinary contrast: Greek island prices are five times higher than Albanian for the same quality of food and accommodation. The ferry experience itself is extraordinary. Ferry approx 20 euros return.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Saranda Coffee on the seafront before the Butrint drive. The morning bay view is extraordinary. | Lunch: Restaurant at Butrint Local fish at the site restaurant overlooking the extraordinary Butrint lagoon. | Dinner: Taverna in Ksamil Grilled octopus, fresh fish and local white wine on the extraordinary island-view terrace.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Dhermi, Night 1 Guesthouses in the village or beach below. Approx 25 to 60 euros per night. Saranda, Nights 2 to 3 Hotels on the seafront. Approx 30 to 70 euros per night. Budget option Guesthouses throughout Albania from approx 15 to 25 euros. Genuinely extraordinary value.
Top Tips
1. The Albanian Riviera has the finest beaches in the Mediterranean at a fraction of Greek or Croatian prices. A sunbed and umbrella costs 3 to 5 euros all day.
2. The Gjipe Canyon beach is the finest hidden beach on the riviera. A 30-minute hike down the canyon from the road gives complete solitude even in August.
3. Stop at every viewpoint on the Llogara Pass road. The panorama over the Ionian Sea and the entire riviera from 1,000 metres is the finest in Albania.
4. Butrint is one of the most extraordinary and most undercrowded UNESCO sites in Europe. You can spend 3 hours there and see almost nobody.
5. The Ksamil islands across from Corfu have the finest water quality on the Albanian coast. Take a boat for 500 ALL and swim in extraordinary turquoise water.
6. Porto Palermo castle on the bay between Himara and Saranda was used by Enver Hoxha as a secret submarine base during the Cold War. Entry approx 200 ALL.
Total Budget
30 to 60 euros/day