Aegean Coast
5
Day Itinerary •
Turkey
Five days on the Turkish Aegean coast takes you through one of the most historically rich shorelines on earth, from the extraordinary ruins of Ephesus and the perfectly preserved ancient theatre of Aspendos to the turquoise bays of Bodrum, the extraordinary white villages of Alacati and the finest seafood in Turkey served in the fishing harbours of the Cesme peninsula. This route covers the complete northern and central Aegean coast. The ancient city of Ephesus and the terrace houses, the extraordinary travertine pools of Pamukkale, the gulet harbour and castle of Bodrum, the windmill village of Alacati, and the hidden coves of the Cesme peninsula where the Aegean meets the finest Turkish meze tradition.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Izmir (ADB) or Bodrum (BJV)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 80 to 150 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
EPHESUS AND SELCUK
MORNING
EPHESUS, THE GREATEST ROMAN CITY IN ASIA MINOR
Ephesus is the best-preserved Roman city in the eastern Mediterranean and one of the most extraordinary ancient sites on earth. The Curetes Street, lined with marble columns, leads to the Library of Celsus, the most photographed facade in Turkey. The Great Theatre holds 25,000 spectators. The terrace houses on the hillside above the main street contain the finest mosaics and frescoes in the ancient world. Entry approx 20 euros. Terrace houses extra. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
THE TEMPLE OF ARTEMIS AND SELCUK
One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World survives as a single column rising from a marshy field on the edge of Selcuk, the lone remnant of what was once the largest temple in the ancient world. The Selcuk Archaeological Museum nearby contains the finest collection of Ephesus sculpture outside Vienna, including the extraordinary multi-breasted Artemis statues. Entry approx 8 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE HOUSE OF THE VIRGIN MARY
Set in the pine forest above Ephesus on the slopes of Bulbuldagi mountain, the small stone house believed by Catholic tradition to be the final home of the Virgin Mary is one of the most visited pilgrimage sites in Turkey. The extraordinary setting in the forest, the spring water believed to have healing properties and the extraordinary view over the Aegean plain below make it unlike anything else on the coast. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The ancient city of Priene, 35km south of Ephesus, is one of the most extraordinary and least visited Greek cities in Turkey. Set on a dramatic hillside above the Meander plain, the grid-planned city retains its theatre, temple of Athena and agora in remarkable preservation. Almost always quiet. Entry approx 8 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Selcuk Tea and gozleme near the Selcuk aqueduct before Ephesus opens. | Lunch: Restaurant near Ephesus Fresh Aegean vegetables, lamb and local Aegean wine. | Dinner: Selcuk fish restaurant The finest fresh fish on the Aegean served simply with meze.
DAY 2
PAMUKKALE AND BODRUM
MORNING
PAMUKKALE, THE COTTON CASTLE
The Pamukkale travertines are one of the most extraordinary natural formations in the world, a cascade of white calcium carbonate terraces and turquoise thermal pools descending a hillside above the Lycus valley. The pools are warm and can be walked barefoot. The extraordinary white formations against the blue sky are most vivid in the morning light before the
MIDDAY
HIERAPOLIS, THE ANCIENT SPA CITY ABOVE THE TRAVERTINES
Hierapolis was founded as a spa city by the Pergamene kings in the 2nd century BC, its extraordinary position above the Pamukkale travertines making it the most spectacular ancient site setting in Turkey. The necropolis is the largest in Anatolia, stretching over a kilometre along the hillside. The extraordinary Domitian Gate, the colonnaded street and the remarkable Martyrium of St Philip are all outstanding. Entry included with Pamukkale. Drive: 2.5 hours drive
AFTERNOON
BODRUM, THE FINEST HARBOUR TOWN ON THE AEGEAN
Bodrum is built around its extraordinary medieval harbour, the Crusader Castle of St Peter dominating the skyline from its promontory between the two bays. The extraordinary old town of whitewashed walls, bougainvillea and gulets moored along the quay is the finest in the Aegean. The covered market, the marina and the extraordinary sunset view from the castle walls make the arrival unforgettable.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The ancient city of Laodikeia near Pamukkale, undergoing active excavation, is one of the Seven Churches of Revelation and one of the finest and least visited ancient cities in Turkey. The extraordinary stadium, the colonnaded streets and the recently excavated temple complex are remarkable. Entry approx 5 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Hotel breakfast, Selcuk Early start for Pamukkale. Full Turkish breakfast before the drive. | Lunch: Thermal pool restaurant, Pamukkale Lunch above the travertines with views over the Lycus valley. | Dinner: Limon Restaurant, Bodrum Waterfront fish and meze on the Bodrum harbour promenade.
DAY 3
BODRUM CASTLE AND THE BAYS
MORNING
BODRUM CASTLE AND THE UNDERWATER ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
The Castle of St Peter was built by the Knights of St John between 1402 and 1522 using stones from the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The castle now contains the world's finest underwater archaeology museum, with the extraordinary Bronze Age Uluburun shipwreck and the Glass Wreck hall among the most remarkable exhibits in Turkey. Entry approx 15 euros. Drive: 10 min walk
MIDDAY
THE MAUSOLEUM OF HALICARNASSUS
The site of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World survives as a remarkable underground chamber and scattered carved fragments in a garden in the centre of Bodrum. The extraordinary carved friezes, now mostly in the British Museum and the castle, give some sense of the scale of the original structure. The site museum explains the reconstruction brilliantly. Entry approx 8 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
GULET TRIP TO THE HIDDEN BAYS
The bays around Bodrum are the finest on the Aegean coast, accessible only by the traditional wooden gulets that depart from Bodrum harbour every morning. The bays of Karaincir, Camellia and the extraordinary Black Island with its natural mud baths are all outstanding. Swimming in the extraordinary turquoise water of the Aegean with the castle visible on the horizon is one of the finest afternoons on the coast.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The village of Gumusluk on the western tip of the Bodrum peninsula is built around the submerged ancient city of Myndos, whose walls are still visible beneath the clear water of the harbour. The fish restaurants built on platforms over the water are the finest on the peninsula. Extraordinary at sunset.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe on Bodrum harbour Tea and simit watching the gulets prepare for departure. | Lunch: Lunch on the gulet Freshly grilled fish served on deck in a hidden bay. | Dinner: Korfez Restaurant, Bodrum old town The finest meyhane in Bodrum. Extraordinary meze and raki.
DAY 4
ALACATI AND CESME
MORNING
ALACATI, THE FINEST VILLAGE ON THE AEGEAN
Alacati is the most beautiful village on the Turkish Aegean coast, its extraordinary grid of stone houses, cobbled lanes and windmills preserved almost perfectly from the 19th century. The weekly Saturday market fills the lanes with the finest Aegean produce. The stone houses have been converted into extraordinary boutique hotels, wine bars and meze restaurants that make Alacati the finest overnight stop on the coast. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
THE CESME PENINSULA HIDDEN COVES
The Cesme peninsula has the most extraordinary coastline on the Aegean, its rocky headlands and hidden coves accessible by boat from Alacati or Cesme harbour. The bay of Boyalik, the extraordinary Pinarli cave beach and the hidden cove of Ilica thermal spring where warm water bubbles up through the sea floor are all remarkable. Hire a boat from Alacati harbour for the morning. Approx 20 euros per person. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
CESME OLD TOWN AND THE GENOESE CASTLE
Cesme is the westernmost town in Turkey, its extraordinary Genoese castle dominating the harbour facing the Greek island of Chios just 8km offshore. The castle museum contains extraordinary Ottoman naval artefacts. The old caravanserai beside the castle, one of the finest on the Aegean coast, is now a hotel and restaurant. The view from the castle walls toward Chios at dusk is extraordinary. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The village of Ildir, built on the site of the ancient city of Erythrai, is the most extraordinary hidden village on the Cesme peninsula. The ancient theatre, the harbour walls and the Byzantine church in the village square are all remarkable. The village has one of the finest small fish restaurants on the Aegean. Almost always quiet. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Alacati stone house cafe The finest Turkish breakfast on the Aegean in a cobbled courtyard. | Lunch: Fish restaurant, Cesme harbour Grilled sea bream and extraordinary Aegean meze. | Dinner: Agrilia Restaurant, Alacati The finest meze restaurant in the finest village on the coast.
DAY 5
CESME PENINSULA AND IZMIR
MORNING
THE ALACATI WINDSURFING LAGOON AND MORNING WALK
The Alacati lagoon is one of the finest windsurfing locations in the world, its extraordinary shallow turquoise waters and consistent Aegean winds attracting the finest windsurfers in Europe every summer. The morning walk along the lagoon shore from the beach club to the old windmills on the hill above the town offers the finest view of the coast. The windmills are the most photographed landmark on the Aegean. Free. Drive: 40 min drive
MIDDAY
THE DALYAN BOAT TRIP FROM CESME
The extraordinary Dalyan cove north of Cesme is accessible only by the small wooden boats that depart from Cesme harbour every morning. The natural harbour, the crystal clear Aegean water and the extraordinary underwater visibility make it the finest swimming spot on the coast. Fresh fish is grilled on the boat on the return journey. Approx 15 euros per person. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
IZMIR WATERFRONT AND THE KORDON PROMENADE
Izmir is the finest city on the Turkish Aegean, its extraordinary Kordon waterfront promenade stretching along the bay with views of the mountains on the far shore. The Kemeralti bazaar behind the waterfront is the most authentic covered market on the coast, its extraordinary hans, spice shops and tea houses unchanged since the Ottoman period. The Izmir Archaeological Museum nearby is outstanding. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The ancient agora of Izmir, an extraordinary Roman marketplace buried beneath the modern city, is one of the finest and least visited ancient sites in Turkey. The remarkable two-storey colonnaded basilica, the extraordinary statues of Poseidon and Demeter and the underground vaulted galleries are all remarkable. Entry approx 8 euros. Almost always quiet.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Alacati courtyard cafe Final morning coffee in the finest village on the Aegean. | Lunch: Dalyan boat lunch Fresh grilled fish on the return from the hidden cove. | Dinner: Kordon waterfront, Izmir The finest fish restaurants in Turkey, on the Aegean waterfront.
Where To Stay
Kusadasi or Selcuk, Night 1 Close to Ephesus. Selcuk is quieter and more authentic. Approx 60 to 120 euros. Bodrum, Nights 2 to 3 Boutique hotel in the old town near the castle. Approx 100 to 200 euros. Alacati, Nights 4 to 5 Stone house boutique hotel in the village. Approx 120 to 250 euros.
Top Tips
1. Ephesus at 8am opening: the Library of Celsus with nobody in front of it is extraordinary.
2. Book the Ephesus terrace houses separately. The mosaics and frescoes inside are outstanding.
3. Pamukkale pools are best at sunset when the travertines glow white against the darkening sky.
4. Bodrum castle contains the world's finest underwater archaeology museum. Allow 2 hours.
5. Alacati meze restaurants are the finest on the Aegean. Book ahead for dinner in high season.
6. The Cesme peninsula hidden coves are only reachable by boat. Take a morning gulet from Alacati.
Total Budget
110 to 295 euros/day