Aegean Coast
3
Day Itinerary •
Turkey
Three days on the Turkish Aegean coast covers the essential highlights of one of the most historically rich and visually extraordinary shorelines in the world. Ephesus at dawn before the crowds arrive, the white travertine pools of Pamukkale at sunset and the gulet harbour and whitewashed lanes of Bodrum make this one of the finest three-day journeys in Turkey. This route runs from the extraordinary Roman ruins of Ephesus south to the thermal wonder of Pamukkale and the ancient spa city of Hierapolis, then west to Bodrum for the Crusader castle, the world's finest underwater archaeology museum and a gulet trip to the hidden turquoise bays of the Aegean.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Izmir (ADB) or Bodrum (BJV)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 80 to 150 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
EPHESUS AND PAMUKKALE
MORNING
EPHESUS, THE GREATEST ROMAN CITY IN ASIA MINOR
Arrive at Ephesus at 8am opening before the coach tours arrive. The Curetes Street, lined with marble columns, leads to the Library of Celsus, the most photographed facade in Turkey. The Great Theatre holds 25,000 spectators. The terrace houses on the hillside contain the finest mosaics and frescoes in the ancient world, their extraordinary interiors preserved under a modern roof. Entry approx 20 euros. Terrace houses extra. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
THE TEMPLE OF ARTEMIS AND SELCUK MUSEUM
One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World survives as a single column in a marshy field at the edge of Selcuk. The Selcuk Archaeological Museum nearby contains the finest collection of Ephesus sculpture outside Vienna, including the extraordinary multi-breasted Artemis statues found in the prytaneion. The Basilica of St John on the hilltop above the town has the finest view over the Aegean plain. Entry approx 8 euros. Drive: 2 hours drive
AFTERNOON
ARRIVAL IN PAMUKKALE
Arrive at Pamukkale in the late afternoon when the extraordinary white travertine terraces glow in the low light. Walk the pools barefoot as the sun descends. The extraordinary cascade of white calcium carbonate formations, the turquoise thermal water and the ruins of Hierapolis on the hill above create one of the most remarkable landscapes in Turkey. Entry approx 15 euros. The pools are warm year round.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The ancient city of Priene, 35km south of Ephesus, is one of the most extraordinary and least visited Greek cities in Turkey. Set on a dramatic hillside above the Meander plain, the grid-planned city retains its theatre, temple of Athena and agora in remarkable preservation. Almost always quiet. Entry approx 8 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Selcuk Tea and gozleme near the Selcuk aqueduct before Ephesus opens at 8am. | Lunch: Restaurant near Ephesus Fresh Aegean vegetables, lamb and local Aegean wine. | Dinner: Pamukkale village restaurant Simple local cooking with views over the white travertines.
DAY 2
PAMUKKALE AND BODRUM
MORNING
HIERAPOLIS AND THE PAMUKKALE TRAVERTINES
Explore Hierapolis in the morning when the ancient spa city is at its finest. The necropolis, the largest in Anatolia, stretches over a kilometre along the hillside. The extraordinary Domitian Gate, the colonnaded street and the Martyrium of St Philip are all outstanding. Then walk the Pamukkale terraces in the full morning light, the white formations and turquoise pools extraordinary in the clarity of the early day. Entry included with Pamukkale. Drive: 2.5 hours drive
MIDDAY
DRIVE TO BODRUM VIA THE MILAS ROAD
The drive from Pamukkale to Bodrum crosses the extraordinary pine-forested mountains of the Mugla region, with views over the turquoise bays of the Aegean appearing between the trees as the road descends toward the coast. Stop at the extraordinary ancient city of Labranda in the mountains above Milas if time allows, one of the finest and least visited ancient sanctuaries in Turkey. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
BODRUM OLD TOWN AND THE HARBOUR
Arrive in Bodrum in the afternoon and explore the extraordinary old town of whitewashed walls, bougainvillea and gulets moored along the quay. The Crusader Castle of St Peter dominates the skyline from its promontory between the two bays. Walk the harbour promenade, explore the covered market and find a table at a waterfront meyhane for sunset over the Aegean with the castle illuminated behind.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The ancient city of Laodikeia near Pamukkale is one of the Seven Churches of Revelation and one of the finest least visited ancient cities in Turkey. The extraordinary stadium, the colonnaded streets and the recently excavated temple complex are remarkable. Entry approx 5 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Hotel breakfast, Pamukkale Full Turkish breakfast before the morning walk on the travertines. | Lunch: Roadside lokanta, Milas region Simple Turkish village cooking on the mountain road to Bodrum. | Dinner: Limon Restaurant, Bodrum Waterfront fish and extraordinary meze on the Bodrum harbour.
DAY 3
BODRUM CASTLE AND THE BAYS
MORNING
BODRUM CASTLE AND THE UNDERWATER ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
The Castle of St Peter now contains the world's finest underwater archaeology museum. The extraordinary Bronze Age Uluburun shipwreck, excavated off Kas in 1984 and containing the most remarkable cargo ever recovered from the ancient sea, is the centrepiece. The Glass Wreck hall and the extraordinary amphora collection are equally outstanding. The castle walls offer the finest view of the Bodrum harbour and peninsula. Entry approx 15 euros. Drive: 10 min walk
MIDDAY
THE MAUSOLEUM OF HALICARNASSUS
The site of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World survives as a remarkable underground chamber and scattered carved fragments in a garden in the centre of Bodrum. The museum explains the extraordinary original structure, one of the largest tombs in the ancient world. The carved friezes, most now in the British Museum, are represented by extraordinary casts. Entry approx 8 euros. Drive: Boat from harbour
AFTERNOON
GULET TRIP TO THE HIDDEN BAYS
The traditional wooden gulets that depart from Bodrum harbour every morning visit the finest bays on the Aegean coast. The extraordinary Black Island with its natural mud baths, the hidden bay of Karaincir and the crystalline water of the open Aegean are all outstanding. Swimming in turquoise water with the Bodrum castle visible on the horizon is the finest afternoon on the entire coast. Approx 30 to 50 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The village of Gumusluk on the western tip of the Bodrum peninsula is built around the submerged ancient city of Myndos, whose walls are still visible beneath the clear water of the harbour. The fish restaurants built on platforms over the water are the finest on the peninsula. Extraordinary at sunset.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe on Bodrum harbour Tea and simit watching the gulets prepare for morning departure. | Lunch: Lunch on the gulet Freshly grilled fish served on deck in a hidden Aegean bay. | Dinner: Korfez Restaurant, Bodrum The finest meyhane in Bodrum. Extraordinary meze and raki at farewell.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Selcuk, Night 1 Quieter and more authentic than Kusadasi. Close to Ephesus. Approx 60 to 120 euros. Pamukkale village, Night 2 Stay in the village for evening access to the pools. Approx 50 to 100 euros. Bodrum, Night 3 Boutique hotel in the old town near the castle. Approx 100 to 200 euros.
Top Tips
1. Ephesus at 8am opening: the Library of Celsus with nobody in front of it is extraordinary.
2. Book the Ephesus terrace houses separately on arrival. The mosaics inside are outstanding.
3. Pamukkale pools are best at sunset when the travertines glow white against the darkening sky.
4. Bodrum castle contains the world's finest underwater archaeology museum. Allow 2 hours minimum.
5. Stay in Selcuk not Kusadasi. It is quieter, closer to Ephesus and more authentic in every way.
6. The gulet trip from Bodrum to the hidden bays is the finest afternoon on the entire Aegean coast.
Total Budget
110 to 275 euros/day