Orkney Shetland
5
Day Itinerary •
UK
Five days across Orkney and Shetland takes you to the most extraordinary prehistoric landscape in Europe and the wildest, most remote archipelago in Britain. Orkney has more Neolithic monuments per square mile than anywhere on earth, its extraordinary Ring of Brodgar, the Ness of Brodgar and the remarkable Skara Brae all predating Stonehenge. Shetland is a different world entirely, closer to Bergen than Edinburgh. This route gives two days on Orkney covering the Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site and the extraordinary wartime history of Scapa Flow, then three days on Shetland exploring the remarkable Jarlshof Bronze Age settlement, the extraordinary cliffs of Eshaness, the remote Out Skerries and the finest seabird colonies in Britain at Hermaness.
Best Time To Visit
May to August for wildlife and long days
Getting There
Fly to Kirkwall (KOI) then fly to Shetland (LSI)
Getting Around
Rental car essential on both island groups
Budget Per Day
Approx 110 to 190 GBP per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, coastal walking on rough paths
DAY 1
HEART OF NEOLITHIC ORKNEY
MORNING
SKARA BRAE, THE BEST-PRESERVED NEOLITHIC VILLAGE ON EARTH
Skara Brae, exposed by a great storm in 1850 after 5,000 years beneath the sand dunes, is the finest Neolithic settlement in northern Europe. The extraordinary stone furniture, the dresser where possessions were displayed, the box beds and the central hearths are all preserved in remarkable detail. The village predates Stonehenge by 500 years. Go at opening time before the coaches arrive. The Skaill House beside it is also outstanding. Entry approx 14 GBP. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
THE RING OF BRODGAR AND THE STONES OF STENNESS
The Ring of Brodgar, a 104-metre diameter stone circle of 27 surviving monoliths on a narrow isthmus between two lochs, is the third largest stone circle in Britain and one of the most extraordinary prehistoric monuments in the world. The Stones of Stenness 1km away are the oldest standing stones in Scotland at 5,100 years old. The extraordinary landscape setting between the lochs, the sense of scale and the complete absence of fencing make both remarkable. Entry free. Drive: 15 min drive
AFTERNOON
MAESHOWE CHAMBERED CAIRN
Maeshowe, built around 2800 BC, is the finest chambered cairn in northwestern Europe. The extraordinary megalithic construction, aligned precisely so that the midwinter sunset illuminates the central chamber, contains the largest collection of Viking runic inscriptions in the world, carved by Crusaders sheltering here in the 12th century. The guided tour is essential. Entry approx 10 GBP. Book ahead in summer.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Ness of Brodgar excavation site between the Ring of Brodgar and the Stones of Stenness, open to visitors in summer, is revealing the most remarkable Neolithic ceremonial complex in Europe with extraordinary painted and decorated stone buildings. Free in summer.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Hotel breakfast, Kirkwall Early start for Skara Brae at opening time. | Lunch: Skara Brae visitor centre cafe Simple lunch after the extraordinary Neolithic village. | Dinner: The Bothy Bar, Kirkwall Local Orkney beef, seafood and the finest Orkney Brewery ales.
DAY 2
ITALIAN CHAPEL, SCAPA FLOW AND HOY
MORNING
THE ITALIAN CHAPEL
The Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm is the most extraordinary small building in Scotland, created by Italian prisoners of war from two Nissen huts between 1943 and 1945. The remarkable trompe-l'oeil painting of brickwork, the extraordinary ornamental ironwork facade and the beautiful interior make it one of the most moving places in Orkney. The story of Domenico Chiocchetti who painted it and returned to restore it in 1960 is remarkable. Entry free. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
SCAPA FLOW AND THE CHURCHILL BARRIERS
Scapa Flow is the finest natural harbour in Europe, the extraordinary wartime anchorage where the German High Seas Fleet was scuttled in 1919 and where the Royal Oak was sunk in 1939. The Churchill Barriers, built by Italian prisoners to close the eastern approaches, now carry the main road south. The extraordinary wartime history, the visible wrecks at low tide and the remarkable Lyness Naval Museum on Hoy are all outstanding. Entry museum approx 5 GBP. Drive: Ferry to Hoy
AFTERNOON
THE OLD MAN OF HOY
The Old Man of Hoy is the most famous sea stack in Britain, its extraordinary 137-metre red sandstone column rising from the sea below the St John's Head cliffs. The walk from Rackwick Bay takes about 90 minutes each way and passes through extraordinary moorland with skuas patrolling overhead. The view of the stack from the clifftop is extraordinary. Return ferry to Stromness for the overnight ferry to Shetland or flight from Kirkwall. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Tomb of the Eagles at Isbister on South Ronaldsay, a Neolithic chambered cairn containing the bones of 342 people mixed with the talons of white-tailed eagles, is the most remarkable and personally led prehistoric experience in Orkney. Entry approx 8 GBP.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Kirkwall hotel Good breakfast before the Churchill Barriers drive. | Lunch: Stromness cafe Simple lunch before the Hoy ferry. | Dinner: Ferry dinner or Kirkwall Final Orkney evening before flying or sailing to Shetland.
DAY 3
JARLSHOF, SUMBURGH AND LERWICK
MORNING
JARLSHOF, FOUR THOUSAND YEARS OF SETTLEMENT
Jarlshof at the southern tip of Shetland is the most extraordinary archaeological site in Scotland, its remarkable layers of Bronze Age, Iron Age, Viking and medieval settlement all exposed together on a single headland. The extraordinary Bronze Age smithy, the Iron Age broch and wheelhouses, the Viking longhouses and the 16th-century laird's house are all outstanding. The dramatic coastal setting above the sea adds to the remarkable atmosphere. Entry approx 8 GBP. Drive: 15 min drive
MIDDAY
SUMBURGH HEAD AND THE SEABIRD COLONY
Sumburgh Head lighthouse at the southern tip of Shetland has the finest accessible seabird colony in Scotland, its extraordinary cliffs packed with puffins, razorbills, guillemots and fulmars at very close range. The puffins nest in burrows on the grass immediately above the cliff path and are remarkably approachable from May to July. The lighthouse visitor centre has excellent interpretation. Free to coast. Drive: 1.5 hours drive
AFTERNOON
LERWICK OLD TOWN AND FORT CHARLOTTE
Lerwick, the northernmost town of any size in Britain, has an extraordinary old town of narrow lanes called closes running down to a remarkable waterfront where traditional Shetland boats moor alongside. Fort Charlotte, built in 1665 and one of the finest small forts in Scotland, overlooks the harbour. The Shetland Museum on the waterfront has the finest collection of Shetland archaeology, textiles and maritime history. Entry fort and museum free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Mousa Broch, the finest preserved Iron Age broch in the world, stands on the island of Mousa visible from the Lerwick to Sumburgh road. The ferry from Sandwick takes 15 minutes and the broch is extraordinary in its state of preservation. Entry approx 10 GBP.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Lerwick hotel First Shetland breakfast after the overnight ferry or morning flight. | Lunch: Sumburgh Airport cafe or picnic Simple lunch at the southern tip of Shetland. | Dinner: Hay's Dock Cafe Restaurant, Lerwick The finest restaurant in Shetland. Local seafood and lamb.
DAY 4
ESHANESS AND THE NORTHMAVINE COAST
MORNING
ESHANESS CLIFFS, THE FINEST COASTAL SCENERY IN SHETLAND
The Eshaness cliffs on the northwestern coast of Shetland are the most extraordinary coastal scenery in the islands, their extraordinary volcanic formations, the remarkable sea stacks and the extraordinary blowholes creating a coastline unlike anything else in Britain. The Villians of Ure, a series of extraordinary rock arches and chambers, and the remarkable Drongs sea stacks are outstanding. The walk along the cliff edge is one of the finest in Scotland. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
RONAS HILL AND THE NORTHMAVINE PENINSULA
Ronas Hill at 450 metres is the highest point in Shetland and the most northerly Munro-equivalent summit in Britain. The walk from Collafirth takes about 2 hours return and passes through extraordinary sub-Arctic heath to the remarkable cairn and the Bronze Age cremation cemetery on the summit plateau. The view of the extraordinary Shetland landscape, the surrounding sea and on clear days Fair Isle, is the finest in the islands. Free. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE VOE OF SWARBACKS AND THE BRAE COAST
The Brae and Voe area of central Shetland has the most extraordinary combination of voes, the remarkable fjord-like inlets that characterise Shetland's inland sea, and the remarkable offshore islands of the Out Skerries visible on the horizon. The drive from Brae north through Muckle Roe to the extraordinary North Roe peninsula passes through the finest emptiness Shetland has to offer. The red-throated divers on the hill lochs are remarkable. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Tangwick Haa Museum at Eshaness, housed in a 17th-century laird's house, has the most remarkable local collection in Shetland. The extraordinary fishing and crofting history and the remarkable knitting collection are outstanding. Entry free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Lerwick hotel Early start for the drive to Eshaness. | Lunch: Hillswick Wildlife Sanctuary cafe Simple lunch near the extraordinary Eshaness cliffs. | Dinner: Pierhead Restaurant, Voe Outstanding local lamb and seafood in the finest Shetland village.
DAY 5
HERMANESS AND UNST
MORNING
THE YELL AND FETLAR FERRY CROSSINGS
drive The drive north through Yell, the second largest Shetland island and the finest place in Britain to see otters, crosses the remarkable open moorland of the central island with its extraordinary peat banks and hill lochs. The ferry from Gutcher to Unst, the most northerly inhabited island in Britain, takes 10 minutes and is the final step to Hermaness. The extraordinary Unst landscape of ancient serpentine rock is remarkable. Ferry included in the route. Drive: 15 min drive
MIDDAY
HERMANESS NATIONAL NATURE RESERVE
Hermaness is the finest seabird colony in Britain, its extraordinary clifftops at the most northerly point of Britain home to 100,000 seabirds in summer. The puffins nest in burrows along the cliff path and are remarkably approachable. The gannet colony on the offshore stacks, the extraordinary great skuas attacking anything that passes and the remarkable Muckle Flugga lighthouse on the most northerly rock in Britain are all outstanding. Entry free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
SKAW BEACH AND BRITAIN'S NORTHERNMOST HOUSE
Skaw beach on Unst is the northernmost beach in Britain, its extraordinary white sand and turquoise water in a completely exposed Atlantic setting unlike any other beach in the country. The ruined house above the beach is the northernmost inhabited building in Britain. The extraordinary combination of seabirds, wild flowers and the open Atlantic horizon gives the finest sense of remoteness in the British Isles. Return ferry and drive to Lerwick for departure. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Lund Viking longhouse on Unst, excavated in the 1990s, is the finest Viking building accessible in Shetland and gives the most remarkable sense of Norse daily life of any site in the islands. Entry free. The Unst Boat Haven nearby has the finest collection of traditional Shetland boats in existence.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Lerwick hotel Early start for the long drive north through Yell. | Lunch: Picnic at Hermaness Packed lunch on the clifftops with puffins for company. | Dinner: Final dinner, Lerwick Farewell to the most northerly archipelago in Britain.
Where To Stay
Kirkwall, Nights 1 to 2 Orkney mainland base. Approx 90 to 160 GBP per night. Lerwick, Nights 3 to 5 Shetland mainland base for all island explorations. Approx 90 to 160 GBP. Unst option Stay overnight on Unst for the Hermaness dawn. Very limited accommodation.
Top Tips
1. Maeshowe at winter solstice has a two-week window where sunlight illuminates the chamber. Book far ahead.
2. Skara Brae is best at opening time before coach tours. The preservation is extraordinary.
3. Shetland driving is on single-track roads. Use passing places correctly and never be in a hurry.
4. Hermaness puffins are present from mid-May to late July. They are remarkably approachable.
5. The Simmer Dim in June means the sky never fully darkens. Extraordinary for photography.
6. Book Orkney accommodation and car hire well ahead. Both are limited and book out fast in summer.
Total Budget
165 to 280 GBP/day