Normandy
3
Day Itinerary •
France
Normandy is one of the most extraordinary regions in France, a landscape of extraordinary diversity and depth. The most magnificent medieval monument in Europe at Mont Saint-Michel rising from its tidal bay. The D-Day beaches where the modern world was shaped in June 1944. The extraordinary white chalk cliffs of Etretat. The medieval city of Rouen where Joan of Arc was burned. And a food culture of extraordinary richness built on cream, cider, calvados and the finest cheeses in France. This 3-day route covers the hidden Normandy. Mont Saint-Michel approached at low tide across the sands as pilgrims have done for a thousand years. The D-Day beaches and the extraordinary American cemetery at Colleville. And the extraordinary white chalk arch cliffs of Etretat that inspired Monet and gave Arsene Lupin his most extraordinary adventure.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Paris then drive 2 hours or fly to Caen (CFR)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 90 to 140 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
MONT SAINT-MICHEL
MORNING
MIDDAY
THE ABBEY OF MONT SAINT-MICHEL
The Benedictine abbey at the summit of the island has been continuously occupied since 966 AD. The extraordinary Gothic church, the three-level Merveille buildings containing the monks' dormitory, refectory and cloister, and the extraordinary view from the abbey terrace over the entire bay are extraordinary. Entry approx 11 euros. The island is best explored in the afternoon after the tour buses leave. Drive: 1 hour walk around island
AFTERNOON
THE HIDDEN ISLAND AND THE RAMPARTS WALK
The Grande Rue leading from the island entrance to the abbey is overwhelmed by shops and tourists. The extraordinary hidden Normandy of Mont Saint-Michel is found by turning left off the Grande Rue into the tiny side streets that lead to the ramparts. The complete rampart walk around the island takes 45 minutes and gives extraordinary views of the bay and the tidal patterns below.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is most extraordinary at night when it is floodlit from below. The island overnight visitors (staying in one of the handful of island hotels) have the entire site to themselves after 6pm. The sound of the sea returning across the sands in the dark is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie on the mainland at Pontorson Coffee and croissant before the bay crossing. Buy provisions for the walk. | Lunch: La Mere Poulard, Mont Saint-Michel The most famous restaurant in Normandy. The legendary omelettes cooked in long-handled pans over an open fire since 1888. Expensive but extraordinary. | Dinner: Auberge Saint-Pierre, Mont Saint-Michel Stay the night on the island and dine after the day visitors have gone. The island at night is extraordinary.
DAY 2
D-DAY BEACHES
MORNING
OMAHA BEACH AND THE AMERICAN CEMETERY AT COLLEVILLE
Omaha Beach is the most important and most moving of the D-Day landing beaches, where 2,000 American soldiers died in the first hours of 6 June 1944. The beach is now entirely peaceful, a wide expanse of sand below gentle bluffs. The American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer above the beach contains 9,387 white marble crosses and Stars of David in perfect rows above the sea. The view from the cemetery overlook over Omaha Beach is one of the most moving in Europe. Free to visit. Drive: 30 min drive to Pointe du Hoc
MIDDAY
POINTE DU HOC AND THE RANGER MEMORIAL
Pointe du Hoc is the most extraordinary physical remnant of D-Day, the jagged headland between Omaha and Utah beaches where 225 US Army Rangers scaled the 30-metre cliffs under fire on D-Day morning to destroy German artillery. The German bunkers, shell craters and observation posts remain exactly as they were in 1944, the landscape of craters and concrete entirely unchanged. One of the most viscerally powerful D-Day sites. Free. Drive: 20 min drive to Bayeux
AFTERNOON
BAYEUX, THE TAPESTRY AND THE CATHEDRAL
Bayeux is the finest and most beautiful town in Normandy and the first French town liberated on D-Day. The Bayeux Tapestry in its dedicated museum is one of the most extraordinary objects in the world: a 70-metre embroidered cloth from 1070 depicting the Norman conquest of England in 58 extraordinary scenes, the first graphic novel in history. Entry approx 10 euros. The Norman Gothic cathedral behind it is extraordinary.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Musee Memorial de la Bataille de Normandie in Bayeux gives the finest overall account of the entire D-Day campaign with extraordinary equipment, maps and personal testimonies. Entry approx 8 euros. Allow 2 hours. The most comprehensive D-Day museum in Normandy.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Bayeux or Omaha area Coffee before the beaches. The morning light on Omaha is extraordinary in the early hours. | Lunch: Restaurant in Bayeux old town Local Normandy cuisine. Moules mariniere, local camembert and calvados tart. | Dinner: Le Moulin de la Galette, Bayeux Outstanding traditional Norman restaurant in Bayeux. Local duck, cream sauces and excellent cidre bouche.
DAY 3
ETRETAT AND ROUEN
MORNING
ETRETAT, THE EXTRAORDINARY WHITE ARCH CLIFFS
The chalk arch cliffs of Etretat are the most extraordinary coastal landscape in France. The Falaise d'Aval with its extraordinary arched needle (the Aiguille) rising from the sea and the Falaise d'Amont above the town are both accessible by clifftop walks. Monet painted the cliffs 40 times. Maurice Leblanc set his Arsene Lupin stories here. The clifftop walk from the village to the Manneporte arch takes 40 minutes and gives the finest views. Entirely free. Drive: 1.5 hours drive to Rouen
MIDDAY
ROUEN, THE CITY OF A HUNDRED SPIRES
Rouen is one of the finest medieval cities in France, an extraordinary labyrinth of half-timbered houses around the Gothic cathedral that Monet painted 30 times in different lights. The Place du Vieux Marche where Joan of Arc was burned alive in 1431 contains the extraordinary modern church of Sainte-Jeanne-d'Arc shaped like the flames. The Gros Horloge, a 14th-century astronomical clock on an arch spanning the main street, is extraordinary. Drive: 15 min walk to museum
AFTERNOON
ROUEN CATHEDRAL AND THE HIDDEN MUSEUM
The Cathedral Notre-Dame de Rouen, the tallest cathedral in France (151 metres) and the subject of Monet's most famous series of 30 paintings, is extraordinary inside. The tombs of Rollo the Viking and Richard Lionheart are inside. The Musee des Beaux-Arts contains one of the finest provincial art collections in France, including major Caravaggio and Velazquez works. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Impressionist trail along the Seine valley between Rouen and the coast traces the exact locations where Monet, Pissarro, Renoir and Sisley painted their most famous works. The tourist office in Rouen provides the free map. Giverny and Monet's gardens are 60km from Rouen.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Etretat village Coffee before the clifftop walk. Buy a bag of Etretat sea salt from the local shops. | Lunch: Le Homard Bleu, Etretat Outstanding seafood restaurant in the cliff village. Fresh lobster, sole and local cider. | Dinner: Gill, Rouen Two Michelin stars on the Seine waterfront. Outstanding modern Norman cuisine. Book well ahead.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Mont Saint-Michel, Night 1 Hotel la Mere Poulard on the island itself. Approx 150 to 280 euros per night. Bayeux, Night 2 Hotel du Lion d'Or, a beautiful 18th-century coaching inn. Approx 90 to 160 euros per night. Budget Option Pontorson (mainland near Mont Saint-Michel) from approx 55 euros. Bayeux: Chambre d'hote from approx 65 euros.
Top Tips
1. Book the Mont Saint-Michel bay crossing guide months ahead. The tide waits for no one.
2. Stay overnight on the island. After 6pm the day visitors leave and you have it entirely to yourself.
3. The Bayeux Tapestry audio guide is essential. The 58 scenes take 90 minutes to understand fully.
4. Pointe du Hoc craters and bunkers are free and unchanged since
1944. Allow a full morning.
5. Etretat clifftop walk is best at sunrise. The arch lights up extraordinary gold for 20 minutes.
6. Normandy camembert must be bought at a market and eaten at room temperature. Never chilled.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day