Moselle
3
Day Itinerary •
Germany
Three days in the Moselle valley reveal the most extraordinary wine river landscape in Germany, its extraordinary steep blue-slate vineyards, perfectly preserved half-timbered wine villages, medieval castle ruins and world-class Riesling estates giving it a character quite unlike the more famous Rhine. The theatrical perfection of Beilstein, the finest market square in Germany at Bernkastel, the Roman treasures of Trier and the legendary Schwarze Katz wine are all within reach. This route follows the Moselle from the extraordinary Reichsburg castle above Cochem through the half-timbered perfection of Beilstein and the wine trading town of Bernkastel to the oldest city in Germany at Trier. Three days along the most extraordinary wine river in Europe.
Best Time To Visit
May to October
Getting There
Train to Koblenz from Cologne or Frankfurt, then Moselle line
Getting Around
Moselle valley railway, river boats, cycling
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 200 EUR per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, riverside cycling and walking
DAY 1
COCHEM AND BEILSTEIN
MORNING
COCHEM AND THE REICHSBURG CASTLE, THE FINEST TOWN ON THE MOSELLE
Cochem is the most extraordinary small town on the Moselle, its extraordinary neo-Gothic Reichsburg castle rebuilt in 1877 after destruction in the War of the Palatine Succession, its extraordinary half-timbered market square, the cable car to the Pinnerkreuz viewpoint and the Moselle loop visible from the heights making it the finest introduction to the valley. The castle tour is the finest on the Moselle. Entry approx 9 euros. Train/Travel: 30 min train
MIDDAY
BEILSTEIN, THE MOST PERFECTLY PRESERVED VILLAGE ON THE MOSELLE
Beilstein 14km from Cochem is the most extraordinarily preserved medieval wine village in Germany, its tiny Marktplatz entirely surrounded by 16th and 17th-century half-timbered buildings unchanged for centuries, its extraordinary Carmelite monastery ruin above the village and the Burg Metternich castle ruin on the cliff above giving it a theatrical perfection. The village has no supermarket, no bank, no through traffic. Accessible by boat from Cochem in summer. Entry to castle approx 3 euros. Train/Travel: 20 min boat
AFTERNOON
THE MOSEL WINE ROUTE AND THE FINEST RIESLING ESTATES
The Moselle valley between Cochem and Koblenz contains the finest concentration of Riesling wine estates in Germany, the extraordinary slate soil of the steep valley slopes producing wines of extraordinary mineral intensity unlike any other region. The Weingut Heymann-Lowenstein at Winningen and the Weingut Pur at Hatzenport are the finest small producers in the lower Moselle. Wine tastings from approx 8 euros per person. The vineyard footpath above Winningen is extraordinary.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Calmont vineyard above Bremm near Cochem is the steepest vineyard in Europe at a 65-degree gradient, its extraordinary Elbling and Riesling vines clinging to the near-vertical Devonian slate cliff above the extraordinary Bremm loop of the Moselle. The via ferrata climbing route through the vineyard is the finest in the Moselle valley, with extraordinary views over the river loop from the cliff face. Guide and equipment hire from Bremm approx 25 euros. The vineyard monorail used by harvesters is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Alte Thorschenke, Cochem Outstanding Moselle breakfast at the finest historic inn in the valley. Local smoked ham and Moselle bread. | Lunch: Weinstube Zum Stuben, Beilstein Outstanding traditional Moselle food in the finest restaurant in the most preserved village. | Dinner: Lohspeicher, Cochem The finest restaurant in Cochem. Outstanding local pike, venison and Moselle Riesling. Book ahead.
DAY 2
BERNKASTEL-KUES
MORNING
BERNKASTEL-KUES, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY WINE TOWN IN THE MOSELLE
Bernkastel-Kues is the most extraordinary wine town in the Moselle valley, its extraordinary Marktplatz of half-timbered buildings considered the finest market square in the Rhineland-Palatinate, its Landshut castle ruin above the vineyards and the extraordinary Weingut Dr Loosen producing some of the finest Riesling Spatlesen in the world making it the essential stop on the upper Moselle. The market square at dawn is extraordinary. Entry to wine estate free. Train/Travel: 45 min train
MIDDAY
THE MOSELLE WINE TASTINGS AND VINEYARD WALK ABOVE BERNKASTEL
The Bernkastel vineyard walk to the Doctor vineyard, the most expensive vineyard plot in Germany per hectare, gives the finest view of the Moselle loop and the town below. The extraordinary Doctor Riesling, named for its alleged medicinal properties, is produced from a 3.26-hectare plot on near-vertical slate and sells for extraordinary prices. The Weingut Wegeler and Weingut Dr Loosen offer the finest estate tastings. Tastings from approx 10 euros. Train/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
TRABEN-TRARBACH AND THE FINEST ART NOUVEAU ARCHITECTURE ON THE MOSELLE
Traben-Trarbach is the most extraordinary art nouveau town on the Moselle, its extraordinary collection of Jugendstil buildings from 1900 to 1914 including the extraordinary Hotel Bellevue, the Bruckentor bridge gate and the Villa Caecilia making it the finest undiscovered architectural destination in the valley. The underground wine palace tunnels beneath the town are the finest cellar system on the Moselle. Entry to tunnels approx 6 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Moselle wine ferry between Bernkastel and Kues, a tiny hand-operated chain ferry connecting the two halves of the twin town, is the shortest and most extraordinary river crossing in Germany, a 30-second crossing that has operated continuously since the 19th century. The view up the Moselle from the ferry deck at golden hour, with the Landshut castle ruin on the cliff and the vineyard slopes catching the low light, is the finest single view in the Moselle valley. Ferry approx 1 euro per crossing.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe am Markt, Bernkastel Outstanding breakfast on the finest market square in the Rhineland. Local bakery bread and Moselle honey. | Lunch: Zum Doktor, Bernkastel-Kues Outstanding Moselle wine estate lunch. Extraordinary local fish and the finest Doctor Riesling by the glass. | Dinner: Romantik Hotel Jugendstil, Traben-Trarbach The finest art nouveau dining room on the Moselle. Outstanding local venison and Moselle wines.
DAY 3
TRIER AND THE UPPER MOSELLE
MORNING
TRIER, THE OLDEST CITY IN GERMANY AND THE ROMAN CAPITAL OF THE WEST
Trier at the head of the Moselle valley was the capital of the Western Roman Empire under Constantine and the most extraordinary Roman city north of the Alps. The extraordinary Porta Nigra, the finest surviving Roman city gate in Europe, the imperial baths of the Kaiserthermen, the extraordinary Basilica of Constantine and the Roman amphitheatre give Trier the finest Roman heritage of any city in Germany. The Karl Marx Haus museum is the finest in the city. Entry to Porta Nigra approx 4 euros. Train/Travel: 1.5 hours train
MIDDAY
THE MOSELLE VALLEY FROM TRIER TO SCHWEICH, THE UPPER MOSELLE WINE VILLAGES
The upper Moselle between Trier and Zell contains the finest and most compact wine village scenery on the river, its extraordinary 16th-century village of Piesport with the finest Goldtropfchen vineyard, the extraordinary Trittenheim village in its perfect Moselle loop and the remarkable Neumagen-Dhron with its extraordinary Roman wine boat sculpture giving the finest 20km of the upper valley. The B53 riverside road is the finest drive in the Rhineland. Train/Travel: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
ZELL AND THE SCHWARZE KATZ, THE MOST FAMOUS MOSELLE WINE LABEL
Zell on the Moselle is the most famous wine village in Germany for a single wine label, the extraordinary Schwarze Katz black cat wine whose extraordinary story of three wine merchants arguing over which barrel to buy until a black cat settled the dispute has made it one of the most recognised German wine brands in the world. The extraordinary Zell market square and the vineyards above the town are remarkable. Wine tasting from approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Roman wine boat of Neumagen-Dhron, a 3rd-century relief carving showing a Roman river barge loaded with wine barrels rowed by eight oarsmen, is the oldest representation of wine transport in the world and is displayed in the Rheinisches Landesmuseum in Trier. The original site where the carving was found in the walls of Neumagen castle has an extraordinary replica displayed outdoors beside the Moselle. The Neumagen village square with its extraordinary Roman-era wine heritage is entirely free to visit.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Domstein, Trier Outstanding Roman-themed breakfast at the extraordinary restaurant beside the Dom in the oldest city in Germany. | Lunch: Piesporter market stalls Outstanding Moselle sausages and local wine from the vineyard village market stalls. | Dinner: Zur Goldenen Gans, Zell The finest inn in Zell. Outstanding Moselle fish and Schwarze Katz Riesling in the extraordinary wine cellar.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Cochem, Nights 1 to 2 Hotel Lohspeicher or Alte Thorschenke. Approx 80 to 180 euros per night. Bernkastel-Kues, Night 3 Hotel Doctor Weinstuben or Zur Post. Approx 70 to 150 euros per night. Budget Moselle valley guesthouses throughout from approx 40 to 70 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Beilstein by boat from Cochem: summer only, approx 11 euros return. The most extraordinary arrival in the valley.
2. Bernkastel market square at dawn: arrive before 8am. The half-timbered square before tourists is extraordinary.
3. Calmont vineyard via ferrata: book guide ahead. The 65-degree slope is Europe's steepest. Bring good boots.
4. Dr Loosen estate tasting: walk-in tastings available daily in summer. The Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese is extraordinary.
5. Trier Porta Nigra: visit before 9am when coach tours arrive. The Roman gate in morning light is extraordinary.
6. Moselle harvest September: the grape picking along the steep slate vineyards is the finest sight in the valley.
Total Budget
70 to 195 EUR/day