LaRioja
3
Day Itinerary •
Spain
La Rioja is Spain's smallest mainland region and one of its most extraordinary. Known worldwide for its wine, it is far less visited than its fame suggests. Beyond the vineyards lie medieval monasteries where the Spanish language was born, dinosaur fossil sites of world importance, dramatic sierra landscapes and wine villages of extraordinary beauty that most visitors drive through without stopping. This 3-day route explores the full depth of hidden La Rioja. The lively capital of Logrono with its extraordinary tapas street, the wine villages and architect-designed bodegas of the Rioja Alta, the ancient monasteries of San Millan de la Cogolla where the first written words in the Spanish language were recorded, and the remarkable dinosaur trail of the Rioja Baja.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Bilbao (BIO) or Logrono (RJL) or Zaragoza (ZAZ)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 115 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
LOGRONO
MORNING
LOGRONO OLD TOWN, THE HIDDEN MEDIEVAL CORE
Logrono is a genuinely enjoyable city that most visitors treat only as a base for winery visits. The old town has a beautifully preserved medieval core centred on the Camino de Santiago route that passes through the city. The Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda has two extraordinary Baroque towers visible from across the city. The Revelin tower is all that remains of the medieval city walls. The Mercado de San Blas is the finest food market in La Rioja, packed with local produce. Drive: 10 min walk to Calle Laurel
MIDDAY
CALLE LAUREL, THE FINEST TAPAS STREET IN SPAIN
The Calle Laurel and the adjacent Calle San Juan contain the highest concentration of extraordinary tapas bars in Spain, and unlike San Sebastian they are almost entirely visited by locals rather than tourists. Each bar has one or two speciality pintxos. Bar Soriano serves the finest mushroom pintxo in Spain, a single grilled mushroom on toast that has been on the menu for 50 years. Bar El Alambique is famous for its crispy prawn skewer. Walk the entire street and eat at every bar. Drive: 15 min walk to Ebro
AFTERNOON
THE EBRO RIVERSIDE AND THE PUENTE DE HIERRO
The Ebro river runs along the southern edge of Logrono and the riverside park is one of the finest in any Spanish city. Walk the Paseo del Espolon, a beautiful 19th-century promenade, to the Puente de Hierro iron bridge with views back to the old town. The Parque de la Ribera continues west along the river to the extraordinary Logrono Weir, a dramatic cascade of water in the middle of the city that is entirely unknown to visitors.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Museo de La Rioja in Logrono is one of the finest regional museums in Spain, housed in an 18th-century baroque palace. The collection covers the extraordinary Roman, Moorish and medieval history of the region with exceptional objects. Entry is completely free and it receives almost no tourists despite being world-class.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Moderno, Logrono The most beloved traditional cafe in Logrono. Excellent coffee and local pastries on the Calle Portales. | Lunch: Calle Laurel tapas crawl Eat at 6 different bars on the Calle Laurel. Each drink brings a specialist pintxo. The finest affordable lunch in Spain. | Dinner: Restaurante El Cachivache, Logrono Outstanding modern Riojan restaurant. Local vegetables, lamb chops and the finest Rioja wine list in the city.
DAY 2
RIOJA ALTA WINE COUNTRY
MORNING
HARO, THE CAPITAL OF RIOJA WINE
Haro is the wine capital of La Rioja and one of the most attractive small towns in northern Spain. The old town has a beautifully preserved medieval centre with an extraordinary arcaded Plaza de la Paz. The Barrio de la Estacion contains the greatest concentration of historic wine bodegas in the world, all built around the 19th-century railway station that allowed Rioja wine to reach the world. Many still offer tours and tastings from approx 10 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Gehry winery
MIDDAY
BODEGAS MARQUES DE RISCAL, FRANK GEHRY'S WINE CATHEDRAL
The Marques de Riscal winery in Elciego is one of the most extraordinary architectural creations in Spain. Frank Gehry designed the hotel and winery in 2006, creating a spectacular titanium structure of curving ribbons that floats above the original 19th-century bodega. The building is extraordinary even from the outside. Winery tours include the extraordinary cellars where wine has been produced since 1858. Entry approx 15 euros. Drive: 30 min drive to Laguardia
AFTERNOON
LAGUARDIA, THE MEDIEVAL WALLED WINE VILLAGE
Laguardia is the finest walled village in the Rioja wine country. The entire old town sits on a hilltop within intact medieval walls, surrounded by a sea of vineyards with the Sierra Cantabria mountains behind. The extraordinary feature of Laguardia is underground: an entire network of 16th-century bodegas carved into the rock beneath the village, where wine was produced and stored for centuries. Several are still operational and offer tastings.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Camino de Santiago passes directly through the Rioja wine country on its route between the Pyrenees and Santiago de Compostela. The stretch between Navarrete and Najera passes through some of the finest vineyard landscapes in Spain, with the Sierra de la Demanda mountains visible on the southern horizon. Walk a section of the Camino through the vines for the most authentic Riojan experience.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Haro old town Several excellent cafes in the arcaded old town. Breakfast before the bodegas open. | Lunch: Restaurante Terete, Haro The most celebrated restaurant in Haro, serving roast lamb since 1867. The wood-fired lamb is extraordinary. Book ahead. | Dinner: Restaurante Amelibia, Laguardia Outstanding restaurant in the walled village. Local lamb, peppers and exceptional Rioja wines. Book ahead.
DAY 3
SAN MILLAN AND THE DINOSAUR TRAIL
MORNING
MONASTERIO DE SAN MILLAN DE LA COGOLLA, THE BIRTHPLACE OF SPANISH
The Monasterios de Suso and Yuso at San Millan de la Cogolla are UNESCO World Heritage Sites of extraordinary importance. In the 10th century, a monk named Gomez wrote the first known words in the Spanish language in the margins of a Latin text at the Monasterio de Suso. This single act of writing gave birth to the Spanish language as we know it today. The Romanesque cave church at Suso is extraordinary. Entry approx 5 euros for guided visits only. Drive: 15 min drive to Najera
MIDDAY
NAJERA, THE ROYAL PANTHEON OF NAVARRE
Najera was the capital of the Kingdom of Navarre and contains the Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real, one of the finest Gothic monasteries in northern Spain. The royal pantheon beneath the church contains the tombs of 30 kings and queens of Navarre and Castile, buried between the 10th and 12th centuries. The cloister is extraordinary. Entry approx 4 euros and one of the most important medieval sites in Spain. Drive: 30 min drive to dinosaur sites
AFTERNOON
THE DINOSAUR TRAIL OF LA RIOJA BAJA
La Rioja contains one of the most important dinosaur fossil sites in Europe. The Jurassic coast of the Rioja Baja has dinosaur trackways preserved in the rock, including the Icnitas de Enciso site with hundreds of footprints from sauropods, theropods and ornithopods dating from 120 million years ago. The Centro Paleontologico de La Rioja in Enciso is an excellent museum. Entry approx 4 euros and entirely free to walk the outdoor trackway sites.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Monasterio de Suso at San Millan can only be visited on guided tours which run at set times and are limited to small groups. Book in advance at the monastery website. The cave church carved into the living rock of the hillside contains the tomb of San Millan himself, who died in 574 AD aged 101, and the original cell where he lived as a hermit for decades.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in San Millan village The village at the foot of the monastery has a small local cafe. Breakfast before the guided tours begin. | Lunch: Restaurante Los Parrales, Najera Outstanding traditional Riojan restaurant near the monastery. Local lamb, Riojan vegetables and excellent wine. | Dinner: Return to Logrono for dinner End the trip back on the Calle Laurel for one final round of the finest pintxos in Spain.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Logrono, Nights 1 and 3 Hotel Calle Mayor, boutique hotel in the old town. Approx 90 to 140 euros per night. Laguardia, Night 2 Hotel Castillo El Collado, a stunning hotel inside the medieval walls. Approx 110 to 170 euros per night. Budget Option Logrono: Hotel Murrieta from approx 55 euros. Haro: Hotel Los Agustinos from approx 65 euros.
Top Tips
1. Calle Laurel tapas bars open from 1pm and 8pm. Eat standing at the bar and move every 20 minutes.
2. Book Restaurante Terete in Haro well ahead. The roast lamb has been on the menu since
1867.
3. San Millan de Suso tours are limited to small groups. Book in advance at the monastery website.
4. Rioja harvest (vendimia) runs September to October. The finest time to visit by far.
5. Laguardia underground bodegas need appointments. Ask the village tourist office to arrange access.
6. Rioja reserva wines need at least 3 years ageing. Buy crianza from smaller bodegas for best value.
Total Budget
80 to 125 euros/day