Essaouira Atlantic
3
Day Itinerary •
Morocco
Three days in Essaouira and the Atlantic Coast gives the full experience of the most relaxed and atmospheric walled city in Morocco. The wind city of the Gnawa musicians, the blue fishing harbour and the extraordinary 18th-century ramparts pointing their bronze cannons over the Atlantic are unlike any other medina in the country. The argan forest and the surf village of Taghazout complete the picture. This route combines two full days in Essaouira, exploring the extraordinary medina and ramparts properly and slowly, with a day in the argan forest visiting the Haha Berber cooperatives and ending at the finest surf village on the Moroccan coast. Essaouira is the most easily loved city in Morocco and three days is barely enough.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to November
Getting There
CTM bus from Marrakech (3 hours) or fly Agadir (AGA)
Getting Around
Walking in medina, rental car for Day 3
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 140 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, mostly walking
DAY 1
ESSAOUIRA: RAMPARTS, HARBOUR AND GNAWA
MORNING
THE ESSAOUIRA RAMPARTS AND THE SKALA DE LA VILLE
Begin on the extraordinary Skala de la Ville, the sea bastion with its line of bronze cannons pointing over the Atlantic, the finest defensive sea wall on the Moroccan coast. Walk the full circuit of the ramparts for the most extraordinary views of the blue harbour, the open ocean and the medina rooftops. The wind off the Atlantic on the ramparts is constant and bracing at any season. The extraordinary 18th-century fortifications are in remarkable condition. Entry free. Drive: 15 min walk
MIDDAY
THE BLUE HARBOUR AND THE FISH GRILLS
The Essaouira fishing harbour with its blue wooden boats is the most atmospheric on the Atlantic coast. The extraordinary fish grill stalls at the harbour entrance are the finest outdoor lunch in Morocco. Point at the fresh sardines, sea bream or swordfish on the ice, agree the price and eat at the quayside table as the seagulls compete with you for the remarkable catch. Nothing in Morocco is fresher or more honest. Drive: 20 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE MEDINA SOUKS AND THE GNAWA EVENING
The Essaouira medina is the most relaxed in Morocco, its extraordinary white and blue-shuttered houses and the remarkable thuya and cedar wood craftsmen creating a unique atmosphere entirely different from the southern imperial cities. The extraordinary Gnawa musicians play their trance music of the guembri bass lute and iron krakeb castanets every evening in the medina and the Place Prince Moulay el-Hassan. The wind city at dusk is unmissable. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ile de Mogador offshore from Essaouira is the only breeding site of Eleonora's falcon outside the Mediterranean. The island was a Phoenician trading post from the 7th century BC. Boat trips from the harbour in summer. The extraordinary spectacle of hundreds of falcons hunting over the island is remarkable.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast Atlantic air Moroccan breakfast. Msemen, argan honey and mint tea. | Lunch: Port fish grills, Essaouira The finest fresh Atlantic sardines in Morocco at the quayside. | Dinner: Restaurant Les Alizees The finest Atlantic fish and seafood restaurant in Essaouira.
DAY 2
ESSAOUIRA: MEDINA, BEACH AND DUNES
MORNING
THE ESSAOUIRA MEDINA: THUYA WOOD, ARGAN AND THE MELLAH
The Essaouira medina has the finest thuya wood workshops in Morocco, the extraordinary burl of the Atlas thuya tree worked into remarkable boxes and furniture. The argan souk sells the finest argan oil and amlou almond paste at excellent prices direct from the Haha Berber cooperatives. The remarkable Mellah, the old Jewish quarter with its decorated synagogue and the extraordinary balconied houses, is the most atmospheric part of the medina. Free. Drive: 30 min walk
MIDDAY
THE ESSAOUIRA BEACH AND THE DIABAT DUNES
The Essaouira beach stretches 10km south from the medina walls, the constant Atlantic trade wind creating the finest windsurfing and kitesurfing conditions in Africa. Walk south along the extraordinary beach to the dunes of Diabat, where the ruins of the Borj el-Berod kasbah sink slowly into the sand and where Jimi Hendrix allegedly stayed in 1969. The extraordinary combination of Atlantic surf, dunes and ruins is unlike anything else on the Moroccan coast. Free. Drive: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE SIDI MOHAMMED BEN ABDALLAH MUSEUM AND FINAL MEDINA
The Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah Museum in the extraordinary 19th-century riad near the medina has the finest collection of Essaouira musical instruments, crafts and historical photographs. The surrounding lanes of the medina in the late afternoon, when the light turns golden on the white walls and the extraordinary blue shutters glow, is the finest hour in Essaouira. A final mint tea on the ramparts as the sun sets over the Atlantic is unmissable. Entry museum approx 3 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary ruins of the Portuguese Castelo Real de Mogador on the offshore island, built in 1506, are visible from the Essaouira ramparts. The island was one of the most important Portuguese trading posts in West Africa. Boat trips from the harbour in summer. Free to view.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Bab Laachour Mint tea and msemen on the terrace beside the finest gate in Essaouira. | Lunch: Taros Cafe rooftop Atlantic view rooftop. Moroccan salads, fish brochettes and fresh juice. | Dinner: Medina restaurant Lamb tagine with preserved lemon in the most relaxed medina in Morocco.
DAY 3
ARGAN COAST AND TAGHAZOUT
MORNING
THE HAHA BERBER ARGAN COOPERATIVE
The argan forest between Essaouira and Agadir is the only place on earth where the argan tree grows and the heartland of the Haha Berber culture. The Cooperative Argan Tidzi allows visitors to watch the extraordinary traditional stone-grinding process and taste the remarkable argan oil, amlou paste and argan cosmetics at source prices. The goats climbing in the argan trees to eat the fruit before the harvest are the most extraordinary sight on the Atlantic coast. Free. Drive: 1 hour drive
MIDDAY
TAGHAZOUT, THE FINEST SURF VILLAGE IN AFRICA
Taghazout is the most beautiful surf village on the Moroccan coast, its extraordinary point breaks and the remarkable whitewashed village above the bay making it unlike any other surf destination. Surf lessons are available for all levels from the schools on the beach. Walk up to the headland above Anchor Point for the extraordinary view of the full sweep of the bay and the Atlantic horizon. The village fish restaurants are outstanding. Lessons approx 20 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
PARADISE VALLEY AND THE RETURN TO ESSAOUIRA
Paradise Valley, 25km northeast of Agadir, is an extraordinary hidden palm oasis gorge invisible from the road above. The 30-minute walk down into the gorge reveals natural turquoise swimming pools under a palm canopy. The extraordinary silence, the clear water and the palm forest above are unlike anything else near the Moroccan coast. Drive back north to Essaouira along the extraordinary argan coast road for a final Atlantic sunset. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Cap Rhir headland between Taghazout and Essaouira has a remarkable lighthouse from 1912 and the finest view of the Atlantic coast from any accessible point on the road. The argan forest on the headland and the Barbary ground squirrels are remarkable. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast, Essaouira Final Atlantic breakfast before the argan forest drive south. | Lunch: Taghazout village restaurant Fresh Atlantic fish and avocado in the finest surf village. | Dinner: Final dinner, Essaouira Return to the wind city. The finest Atlantic fish and Gnawa farewell.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Essaouira medina riad, all 3 nights Inside the medina walls for the full experience. Approx 60 to 140 euros per night. Riad location tip Book near the Skala de la Ville for the closest access to the ramparts and harbour. Day 3 car hire Hire a car from Essaouira for the day trip south. Approx 30 euros for the day.
Top Tips
1. Essaouira is always windy. Bring a light jacket even in summer. The wind is the city's character.
2. The harbour fish grills are the finest lunch in Morocco. Point at the fish and pay by weight.
3. The Gnawa musicians play in the medina every evening. Their extraordinary trance music is unmissable.
4. Argan oil from the Haha Berber cooperatives is the most authentic and best priced in Morocco.
5. Walk the full circuit of the ramparts. The Atlantic view from the Skala de la Ville at sunset is extraordinary.
6. Taghazout surf lessons are available for all levels. The waves are consistent and the beach beautiful.
Total Budget
75 to 165 euros/day