Edinburgh Lothians
5
Day Itinerary •
UK
Five days in Edinburgh and the Lothians gives you time to explore one of the great European capital cities properly and then venture into the extraordinary countryside that surrounds it. The volcanic Old Town, the Georgian New Town, the extraordinary Royal Mile from the castle to Holyrood, Arthur's Seat and the remarkable Lothian countryside of the East Lothian coast and the Moorfoot Hills all await. This route covers the complete Edinburgh experience. The castle and the Scottish Crown Jewels, the extraordinary National Museum of Scotland, Greyfriars Kirkyard, the hidden closes of the Old Town, the Scottish Parliament and Holyrood Palace, the Pentland Hills, the Bass Rock gannet colony and the extraordinary beach and castle town of North Berwick.
Best Time To Visit
May to September, or August for the Festival
Getting There
Edinburgh Airport (EDI) or direct trains from London
Getting Around
Walking and trams in city, train or car for Lothians
Budget Per Day
Approx 120 to 200 GBP per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, mostly walking on pavements and paths
DAY 1
EDINBURGH OLD TOWN
MORNING
EDINBURGH CASTLE AND THE SCOTTISH CROWN JEWELS
Edinburgh Castle, perched on the extraordinary volcanic plug of Castle Rock, has dominated the city skyline since the 12th century. The Scottish Crown Jewels, the oldest in the British Isles, and the Stone of Destiny are housed in the Crown Room. The Half Moon Battery gives the finest view of the Old Town rooftops, Calton Hill and the Firth of Forth. Book online to skip the queues. Entry approx 18 GBP. Travel: 10 min walk
MIDDAY
THE ROYAL MILE AND THE HIDDEN CLOSES
The Royal Mile runs from the castle to Holyrood and is the spine of the Old Town, lined with extraordinary medieval tenements, closes and wynds. Victoria Street, the extraordinary curved street of coloured shopfronts that inspired Diagon Alley, is the finest in the city. Greyfriars Kirkyard, one of the most atmospheric graveyards in Scotland and home to the faithful dog Greyfriars Bobby, is a short walk away. Free. Travel: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
HOLYROOD PALACE AND THE SCOTTISH PARLIAMENT
The Palace of Holyroodhouse at the foot of the Royal Mile is the official Scottish residence of the monarch. Mary Queen of Scots lived here and her supper room where Rizzio was murdered is extraordinary. The Scottish Parliament building next door, opened in 2004, is one of the most architecturally controversial but remarkable modern buildings in Britain. Free to view externally. Entry palace approx 17 GBP.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
Mary King's Close, the extraordinary preserved 17th-century street buried under the Royal Mile when the City Chambers were built above it, is one of the most remarkable historic spaces in Edinburgh. Guided tours only. Entry approx 16 GBP. The underground street is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: The Petit Paris, Grassmarket French-Scottish crossover breakfast below the castle rock. | Lunch: The Elephant House The cafe where J.K. Rowling wrote early Harry Potter chapters. Haggis toastie. | Dinner: The Witchery by the Castle The most atmospheric restaurant in Scotland. Book ahead.
DAY 2
ARTHUR'S SEAT AND THE CITY
MORNING
ARTHUR'S SEAT AND HOLYROOD PARK
Arthur's Seat, the ancient volcano at 251 metres rising from the middle of the city, is the finest urban hill walk in Britain. The path from St Margaret's Loch takes about 45 minutes to the summit. The extraordinary panoramic view over Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth, the Lothian coast and on clear days the Highland peaks is outstanding. The Radical Road below Salisbury Crags was built in 1820 to give work to unemployed weavers. Free. Travel: 15 min walk
MIDDAY
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SCOTLAND
The National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street is one of the finest free museums in Britain, its extraordinary Scottish collection spanning from the Pictish stones to Dolly the sheep. The Grand Gallery with its soaring Victorian cast-iron roof is one of the most extraordinary interior spaces in Edinburgh. The Lewis Chessmen, the Maiden guillotine and the remarkable collection of Scottish silver are all outstanding. Free. Travel: 20 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE SCOTCH WHISKY EXPERIENCE AND CALTON HILL
The Scotch Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile has the finest whisky tasting in Scotland, its extraordinary collection of over 3,500 bottles the largest in the world. The tasting tours are excellent. Walk up to Calton Hill for the finest panoramic view of Edinburgh at any time of day, the extraordinary National Monument, the Nelson Monument and the city skyline with the castle behind making it one of the most remarkable urban views in Europe. Free to hill.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
St Anthony's Chapel ruin on the northeastern shoulder of Arthur's Seat, reached by a 20-minute walk from St Margaret's Loch, gives the finest view of the city from below the main summit and is almost always completely quiet. The ruin is one of the most atmospheric in Edinburgh. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe on the Royal Mile Coffee and porridge before the Arthur's Seat climb. | Lunch: The Mosque Kitchen, Nicholson St The finest value lunch in Edinburgh. Extraordinary curry. | Dinner: Timberyard, Lothian Road Outstanding modern Scottish cooking in an extraordinary converted warehouse.
DAY 3
NEW TOWN, GALLERY AND LEITH
MORNING
THE NEW TOWN GEORGIAN STREETS
Edinburgh's New Town, built between 1765 and 1850, is the largest and finest Georgian urban landscape in Britain, its extraordinary planned streets, crescents and squares all Grade A listed. Charlotte Square, designed by Robert Adam in 1791, is the finest Georgian square in Scotland. The Dean Village, the extraordinary former milling community in the Water of Leith gorge below the New Town, is one of the most hidden and atmospheric places in Edinburgh. Free. Travel: 30 min walk
MIDDAY
THE SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY
The Scottish National Gallery on the Mound houses the finest collection of art in Scotland, its extraordinary Old Masters including Titian's Diana paintings, Velazquez, Raphael and the remarkable collection of Scottish art from Ramsay to Peploe. The Impressionist collection includes Monet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. The extraordinary building itself, designed by William Playfair, is one of the finest neoclassical interiors in Britain. Free. Travel: 40 min walk or tram
AFTERNOON
LEITH AND THE SHORE
Leith, Edinburgh's port, has become the finest eating and drinking neighbourhood in Scotland, its extraordinary restored Victorian warehouses, the remarkable Shore waterfront and the former Royal Yacht Britannia all outstanding. The Water of Leith Walkway follows the river from Leith through the Dean Village and into the heart of the city along an extraordinary riverside path. Britannia entry approx 18 GBP.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Dean Cemetery, hidden behind the Dean Village, contains the graves of some of the most remarkable Scots of the 19th century including James Clerk Maxwell and many of the architects who built the New Town. The Victorian funerary sculpture is outstanding. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Valvona and Crolla The finest Italian deli in Scotland on Elm Row. Extraordinary coffee. | Lunch: Scottish National Gallery cafe Excellent cafe in the extraordinary basement of the gallery. | Dinner: The Kitchin, Leith Shore Tom Kitchin's Michelin-starred restaurant. Local and seasonal. Book ahead.
DAY 4
EAST LOTHIAN AND NORTH BERWICK
MORNING
NORTH BERWICK AND THE BASS ROCK
North Berwick is the finest seaside town in Scotland, its extraordinary volcanic harbour, the remarkable Scottish Seabird Centre and the extraordinary Bass Rock offshore making it unlike any other coastal town in Britain. The Bass Rock is the largest single-rock gannet colony in the world, its extraordinary 150,000 gannets visible as a white mass from the shore. Boat trips from the harbour give the most extraordinary close-up view. Train from Waverley 35 minutes. Travel: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
TANTALLON CASTLE
Tantallon Castle, 3km east of North Berwick, is the most dramatically sited castle in Scotland, its extraordinary curtain wall rising from a clifftop above the sea with the Bass Rock directly opposite. Built by the Earl of Douglas in the 14th century, the extraordinary pink sandstone wall stands almost to its full height. The view of the Bass Rock from the castle parapet is the finest in East Lothian. Entry approx 8 GBP. Travel: 15 min drive
AFTERNOON
EAST LOTHIAN COAST WALK
The East Lothian coast between North Berwick and Gullane has the finest coastal walking in the Lothians, its extraordinary sandy beaches, remarkable dune systems and the outstanding Gullane Bents giving a sense of the wild coast that exists just 30km from the city centre. The remarkable Archerfield estate and the extraordinary John Muir Way coastal path are both outstanding. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Dirleton Castle, 5km west of North Berwick, is the most beautiful ruined castle in East Lothian, its extraordinary gardens and the remarkable 13th-century circular towers reflected in the village pond making it one of the most picturesque scenes in Scotland. Entry approx 8 GBP.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Edinburgh hotel breakfast Early train to North Berwick. Take breakfast at the hotel. | Lunch: The Lobster Shack, North Berwick harbour The finest lobster roll in Scotland, eaten on the harbour wall. | Dinner: The Grange, North Berwick Outstanding local seafood in the finest East Lothian restaurant.
DAY 5
ROSSLYN, PENTLANDS AND CRAIGMILLAR
MORNING
ROSSLYN CHAPEL
Rosslyn Chapel, 10km south of Edinburgh, is the most extraordinary and mysterious small church in Scotland. Built between 1446 and 1484 by William Sinclair, its interior is covered in an extraordinary density of carved stone decoration including the remarkable Apprentice Pillar, the extraordinary Green Men and the carvings that have generated centuries of speculation about Knights Templar and hidden treasures. Entry approx 10 GBP. Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
THE PENTLAND HILLS
The Pentland Hills rise immediately south of Edinburgh to 579 metres, their extraordinary moorland ridges giving panoramic views of the city, the Firth of Forth and on clear days the Highland peaks. The walk from Flotterstone through the Glencorse reservoir valley to the Kips ridge is the finest in the Pentlands. The extraordinary quality of the solitude within 20 minutes of a capital city is remarkable. Free. Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE
Craigmillar Castle, 3km southeast of the city centre, is the most overlooked and extraordinary castle in Edinburgh, its remarkable 15th-century tower house and courtyard walls in remarkable preservation. Mary Queen of Scots sheltered here after Rizzio's murder and the conspiracy to kill her husband Darnley was plotted in these rooms. The extraordinary view of the city from the castle parapets is outstanding. Entry approx 8 GBP.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Surgeons' Hall Museum on Nicholson Street, part of the Royal College of Surgeons, has the most remarkable and macabre collection of medical history in Scotland including the extraordinary case made from the skin of William Burke of Burke and Hare. Entry approx 8 GBP. One of Edinburgh's most extraordinary and least visited museums.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Hotel breakfast, Edinburgh Early start for Rosslyn. Full Scottish breakfast before driving south. | Lunch: Rosslyn Glen cafe Simple lunch near the extraordinary chapel. | Dinner: Final dinner, Edinburgh Old Town Farewell to the Athens of the North. The Witchery or Ondine.
Where To Stay
Old Town, all 5 nights Stay on or near the Royal Mile for the full Edinburgh experience. Approx 100 to 220 GBP. New Town alternative Georgian streets, quieter, 10 minutes walk to everything. Approx 90 to 180 GBP. August Festival tip Book at least 6 months ahead for August. Prices triple during the Festival.
Top Tips
1. Edinburgh Castle is expensive. Book online in advance and go first thing to beat the queues.
2. The closes off the Royal Mile are free to explore and contain the most atmospheric spaces in the city.
3. Arthur's Seat is free. Start from St Margaret's Loch for the easiest and most scenic route.
4. The National Museum of Scotland is one of the finest free museums in Britain. Allow half a day.
5. Book Bass Rock boat trips from North Berwick well ahead in summer. The gannet colony is extraordinary.
6. The Scotch Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile has the finest whisky tasting in Scotland.
Total Budget
145 to 305 GBP/day