BuenosAires
3
Day Itinerary •
Argentina
Three days in Buenos Aires delivers the most extraordinary European city in the Americas, a metropolis of 15 million people on the Rio de la Plata whose extraordinary Belle Epoque architecture, world-class museums, legendary parrilla steakhouses, passionate tango culture and remarkable neighbourhood diversity make it one of the finest and most complex capitals in the southern hemisphere. This focused route covers the essential Buenos Aires experience. The extraordinary Plaza de Mayo colonial heart, the MALBA museum with the finest Latin American art collection on the continent, the colourful La Boca Caminito, the extraordinary San Telmo antiques market and tango milongas, the Recoleta Cemetery with its extraordinary mausoleum architecture, and the finest Argentine beef at the legendary parrillas of Palermo and San Telmo.
Best Time To Visit
March to May or September to November, spring and autumn
Getting There
Fly into Ministro Pistarini Airport (EZE), Buenos Aires
Getting Around
Subte metro, Uber and taxis throughout the city
Budget Per Day
Approx 60 to 150 USD per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, flat city with walkable neighbourhood clusters
DAY 1
HISTORIC CENTRE AND SAN TELMO
MORNING
PLAZA DE MAYO AND THE HISTORIC CENTRE
The extraordinary Plaza de Mayo at the heart of Buenos Aires, the founding square of the city where the Casa Rosada presidential palace with its extraordinary pink facade, the Metropolitan Cathedral where Jorge Bergoglio served as Archbishop before becoming Pope Francis, and the remarkable Cabildo colonial town hall surround a plaza that has been the site of every major event in Argentine history. The extraordinary Thursday march of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo continues here. Free to explore. 20 min taxi
MIDDAY
LA BOCA AND EL CAMINITO
The extraordinary La Boca neighbourhood, where the remarkable Caminito pedestrian alley is painted in an extraordinary patchwork of vivid colours by the Italian immigrant community that settled here in the 19th century. The extraordinary corrugated iron houses painted in leftover ship paint create a unique aesthetic found nowhere else in Argentina. The remarkable Boca Juniors stadium looming over the neighbourhood is the most passionate football venue in South America. 20 min taxi
AFTERNOON
SAN TELMO AND TANGO MILONGA
The extraordinary San Telmo neighbourhood, Buenos Aires' oldest barrio, where the remarkable cobblestone streets and extraordinary colonial buildings house an extraordinary concentration of antique dealers, independent galleries, the finest craft beer bars in the city and the best tango milongas in Argentina. The Sunday Feria de San Telmo antiques market fills the extraordinary Plaza Dorrego. The milonga at La Catedral or El Beso is the finest tango experience in Buenos Aires.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Feria de San Telmo antiques market spills out of the Plaza Dorrego across the entire San Telmo neighbourhood on Sundays, with the finest collection of Argentine antiques, vintage leather goods, remarkable silver mate sets, extraordinary tango memorabilia and colonial-era furniture in the city. Arrive before 11am for the finest finds before the extraordinary crowds arrive. Free to browse.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: El Federal, San Telmo The oldest traditional cafe in Buenos Aires, in operation since 1864. Extraordinary medialunas and cortado. | Lunch: El Baqueano, San Telmo Outstanding modern Argentine restaurant. Extraordinary indigenous ingredients and Patagonian game menu. | Dinner: Don Julio, Palermo The finest parrilla in Buenos Aires. Extraordinary Argentine beef, remarkable wine list. Book weeks ahead.
DAY 2
PALERMO
MORNING
MALBA, MUSEUM OF LATIN AMERICAN ART OF BUENOS AIRES
The most extraordinary art museum in Argentina and one of the finest in Latin America, housing the remarkable Eduardo Constantini Collection of over 200 works by the greatest 20th-century Latin American artists. The extraordinary works by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Xul Solar and Antonio Berni are the finest in the collection. The remarkable MALBA building itself, designed by the Córdoba firm Gastón Atelman, is extraordinary modern architecture. Entry approx 2,000 ARS. 20 min walk
MIDDAY
JARDÍN JAPONÉS AND PALERMO PARKS
The extraordinary Jardín Japonés in Palermo, one of the finest Japanese gardens outside Japan, with remarkable koi ponds, extraordinary stone lanterns, traditional tea house and beautiful bridge architecture in a surprisingly peaceful setting in the heart of the city. The extraordinary Palermo parks surrounding the garden, the largest green space in Buenos Aires, are where porteños jog, cycle and picnic on weekend afternoons. Entry approx 900 ARS. 20 min walk
AFTERNOON
PALERMO SOHO AND HOLLYWOOD
The extraordinary Palermo Soho neighbourhood, Buenos Aires' finest design district, where the remarkable independent boutiques, extraordinary concept stores, the finest independent bookshops in Argentina and the best craft beer bars in the city line the tree-shaded cobblestone streets. The extraordinary street art of Palermo Hollywood one block north transforms the neighbourhood into an open-air gallery. The finest afternoon neighbourhood walk in Buenos Aires.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Biblioteca Nacional on Agüero street in Recoleta, the finest library building in Argentina, is a remarkable 1992 Brutalist concrete structure designed by Clorindo Testa whose extraordinary form rises on four massive pillars above the remarkable garden where Juan Manuel de Rosas once had his estate. The extraordinary reading rooms and the remarkable views over the Rio de la Plata from the upper floors are open to the public. Free entry.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Tortoni, Centro The most famous cafe in Buenos Aires, in operation since 1858. Extraordinary medialunas and tango shows. | Lunch: Mishiguene, Palermo Outstanding modern Jewish-Argentine restaurant in Palermo. Extraordinary Buenos Aires fusion cuisine. | Dinner: Tegui, Palermo The finest tasting menu restaurant in Buenos Aires. Extraordinary modern Argentine cuisine. Book ahead.
DAY 3
RECOLETA AND PUERTO MADERO
MORNING
CEMENTERIO DE LA RECOLETA
The most extraordinary cemetery in South America and one of the finest in the world, a remarkable city of the dead where the extraordinary marble and granite mausoleums of Argentina's most powerful families line remarkable cobblestone avenues. The extraordinary tomb of Eva Peron in the Duarte family mausoleum is the most visited, but the remarkable Neo-Gothic and Baroque tombs surrounding it are equally extraordinary. Entry free. Allow 1.5 hours to explore the remarkable labyrinth. 10 min walk
MIDDAY
MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES
The extraordinary National Fine Arts Museum adjacent to the Recoleta Cemetery, housing the finest collection of European and Argentine art in the country, with remarkable works by Rembrandt, Goya, Rodin and the extraordinary collection of Argentine 19th-century landscape painting that captured the remarkable Pampas and Patagonia at the height of Argentine national expansion. Entry free. The fine arts museum is one of the finest free museums in South America. 20 min taxi
AFTERNOON
PUERTO MADERO AND RIO DE LA PLATA
The extraordinary Puerto Madero redevelopment, the most expensive real estate in Buenos Aires, where the remarkable old brick port warehouses of the 1887 harbour have been converted into extraordinary restaurants, galleries and luxury apartments along the banks of the Rio de la Plata. The remarkable Puente de la Mujer pedestrian bridge by Santiago Calatrava is the finest piece of contemporary architecture in Buenos Aires. The extraordinary sunset over the river from Costanera Sur is the finest in the city.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve adjacent to Puerto Madero is a remarkable 350-hectare nature reserve created by accident when a 1970s landfill project was abandoned and the Rio de la Plata colonised it with extraordinary grassland and wetland vegetation. Over 300 bird species have been recorded including remarkable herons, capybaras and the extraordinary southern lapwing. Free entry.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Florería Atlántico, Retiro Outstanding Retiro flower shop turned extraordinary cocktail bar and restaurant. Remarkable Argentine breakfast. | Lunch: El Sanjuanino, Recoleta Outstanding traditional Argentine restaurant near the cemetery. Extraordinary empanadas and locro stew. | Dinner: Faena Hotel restaurant Outstanding modern Argentine fine dining in the extraordinary Philippe Starck-designed Faena Hotel, Puerto Madero.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Palermo Casa Lucía or Nuss Buenos Aires. Palermo Soho location. Approx 80 to 200 USD per night. Recoleta Alvear Palace Hotel or Loi Suites Recoleta. Fine neighbourhood. Approx 100 to 400 USD per night. Budget Milhouse Hostel (San Telmo) or Circus Hostel (Palermo). Approx 15 to 50 USD per night.
Top Tips
1. Buenos Aires has one of the most active nightlives in the world. Restaurants fill from 9pm, clubs from 1am.
2. The San Telmo Sunday market runs all day. Arrive before 11am for the antiques before the crowds build.
3. Argentine beef is extraordinary. Parrilla dinner is the essential Buenos Aires meal. Reserve in advance.
4. The Recoleta Cemetery is free and extraordinary. Allow 1.5 hours to explore the mausoleum streets.
5. La Boca is a tourist area. Visit the Caminito but avoid wandering more than a block off the main street.
6. The spring jacaranda blooming in Palermo (Oct to Nov) is extraordinary. The purple canopy is the finest in BA.
Total Budget
45 to 495 USD/day
