Bordeaux
3
Day Itinerary •
France
Bordeaux and Aquitaine is France's most extraordinary wine and food region. The Gironde estuary, with its two banks of legendary vineyards, produces the most celebrated wines in the world. But Bordeaux is far more than Medoc and Saint-Emilion. The city itself has the finest concentration of 18th-century neoclassical architecture in Europe, extraordinary oyster culture on the Arcachon basin, prehistoric cave art of world importance in the river valleys, and a food culture that rivals Lyon for the title of France's greatest table. This 3-day route covers the hidden Bordeaux. The extraordinary city beyond the wine shops, the Medoc chateaux and the extraordinary Grand Cru experience, the extraordinary medieval town of Saint-Emilion on its limestone hill, and the extraordinary Arcachon basin with Europe's highest dune, the finest oysters in France and the extraordinary hidden Cap Ferret peninsula.
Best Time To Visit
May to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Bordeaux (BOD)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 90 to 150 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
BORDEAUX CITY
MORNING
BORDEAUX, THE PORT OF THE MOON
Bordeaux has the largest concentration of 18th-century neoclassical architecture in Europe, its entire historic centre a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Place de la Bourse reflected in the Miroir d'Eau, the world's largest reflecting pool, is the iconic image of the city. But the hidden Bordeaux is the network of streets behind the grand facades. The Quartier Saint-Pierre and the Rue du Parlement Saint-Pierre contain the finest medieval and Renaissance buildings. The Grosse Cloche, a 15th-century belfry, still rings above the old city. Drive: 15 min walk to wine bar
MIDDAY
THE BORDEAUX WINE CULTURE AND HIDDEN BARS
The Cite du Vin is the most extraordinary wine museum in the world, a building shaped like a swirling wine decanter with 10 extraordinary thematic galleries and a panoramic tasting bar at the top with views over the Garonne. Entry approx 22 euros including a tasting. The Darwin Ecosystem in a converted military barracks is the most extraordinary alternative cultural space in Bordeaux, with street art, independent restaurants, an organic market and the finest craft beer selection in southwestern France. Drive: 15 min walk to market
AFTERNOON
THE MARCHE DES CAPUCINS AND THE HIDDEN BORDEAUX
The Marche des Capucins is Bordeaux's finest food market, open every morning and beloved by the city's chefs. Buy extraordinary canned sardines, local foie gras, jambon de Bayonne and the finest Aquitaine cheeses. The Rue Sainte-Catherine, the longest pedestrianised shopping street in France, runs through the city. Find the extraordinary hidden patios and 18th-century courtyards concealed behind the neoclassical facades.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Porte Cailhau is a magnificent 15th-century city gate built to celebrate Charles VIII's victory at Fornovo in 1495. The gate contains an extraordinary small museum of medieval Bordeaux and the view from the top over the Garonne and the Pont de Pierre is one of the finest in the city. Entry approx 4 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Caffe du Commerce, Bordeaux The most beloved traditional cafe in Bordeaux. Coffee and croissant before the city wakes up. | Lunch: La Tupina, Bordeaux The most celebrated traditional restaurant in Bordeaux. Local duck, foie gras and Bordeaux wines since 1968. Book ahead. | Dinner: Le Pressoir d'Argent, Bordeaux Two Michelin stars in the Grand Hotel de Bordeaux. Gordon Ramsay's flagship French restaurant. Book months ahead.
DAY 2
MEDOC AND SAINT-EMILION
MORNING
THE MEDOC, THE GREATEST WINE LANDSCAPE IN THE WORLD
The Medoc peninsula north of Bordeaux contains Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estephe, the four communes that produce the most celebrated red wines on earth. The Route des Chateaux passes Chateau Margaux, Chateau Latour, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and Chateau Petrus in succession, their vineyards separated only by small roads. Most Grand Cru chateaux offer tours and tastings by appointment. The landscape of low, gravelly hills covered with vines stretching to the Gironde estuary is extraordinary in the September harvest. Drive: 1 hour drive to Saint-Emilion
MIDDAY
SAINT-EMILION, THE MEDIEVAL WINE TOWN ON LIMESTONE
Saint-Emilion is one of the most extraordinary wine towns in France, a medieval village on a limestone hill entirely surrounded by the vineyards that produce one of the world's finest wines. The underground Eglise Monolithe, carved entirely from the limestone bedrock in the 12th century, is the largest monolithic church in Europe. Entry to the church requires a guided tour approx 8 euros. The Chateau Ausone and Chateau Cheval Blanc vineyards begin at the village walls. Drive: 30 min walk around village
AFTERNOON
SAINT-EMILION WINE TASTINGS AND HIDDEN CELLARS
The limestone beneath Saint-Emilion is entirely honeycombed with wine cellars, some stretching for kilometres. The Union des Producteurs de Saint-Emilion cooperative offers excellent tastings of multiple appellations. Several smaller producers on the surrounding plateau offer extraordinary tastings in their own cellars at reasonable prices. The view from the Tour du Roi tower over the vine-covered plateau at sunset is extraordinary.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Chateau Pichon Baron in Pauillac is one of the finest Grand Cru chateaux to visit, with an extraordinary Victorian chateau above the vineyards offering excellent tours and tastings. The view from the chateau across the Gironde to the Medoc is extraordinary. Book visits in advance at the chateau website.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Pauillac village Coffee in the Medoc's main village before driving the Route des Chateaux. | Lunch: Logis de la Cadene, Saint-Emilion The finest restaurant in Saint-Emilion. Extraordinary local cuisine in a medieval setting. Book ahead. | Dinner: Hostellerie de Plaisance, Saint-Emilion Two Michelin stars with the finest view over the vineyards. Book months ahead.
DAY 3
ARCACHON BASIN
MORNING
THE DUNE DU PILAT, EUROPE'S HIGHEST SAND DUNE
The Dune du Pilat at 110 metres is the highest sand dune in Europe and one of the most extraordinary natural landscapes in France. The climb to the top takes 15 minutes and the view from the summit is extraordinary: the Atlantic ocean on one side, the vast Landes pine forest on the other and the Arcachon basin below. The dune moves several metres inland every year, slowly engulfing the forest. Free to visit at any time. Drive: 20 min drive to Cap Ferret
MIDDAY
CAP FERRET, THE HIDDEN PENINSULA
Cap Ferret is a narrow peninsula separating the Arcachon basin from the Atlantic, covered in pine forests with extraordinary beaches on both sides. The western Atlantic beaches are wild and dramatic. The eastern basin beaches give views across the water to the Dune du Pilat. The village at the tip of the peninsula has the finest oyster shacks in France, where local oystermen sell directly from plastic tables in simple wooden huts on the waterfront. A dozen oysters with a glass of Entre-Deux-Mers white wine costs approximately 12 euros. Drive: 20 min boat to Arcachon
AFTERNOON
ARCACHON, THE EXTRAORDINARY VICTORIAN SEASIDE CITY
Arcachon is one of the most extraordinary seaside towns in France. The Ville d'Hiver (Winter Town) is a neighbourhood of extraordinary Victorian villas built in the 1860s in the pine forest above the waterfront, each one in a different fantastical style including Moorish, Gothic, Basque and Baroque. This extraordinary wealthy winter resort for Parisians has survived almost entirely intact and is unlike anywhere else in France.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ile aux Oiseaux (Bird Island) in the Arcachon basin is a small uninhabited island with two extraordinary wooden huts on stilts used for oyster cultivation, the iconic image of the basin. The island is visible from the Cap Ferret peninsula and accessible by boat from Arcachon. The bird life around the island is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie at base of Dune du Pilat Coffee and pastry before the climb. The view from the top deserves a good breakfast. | Lunch: Oyster shack, Cap Ferret A dozen Arcachon oysters with Muscadet at a plastic table on the waterfront. The finest lunch in France at 12 euros. | Dinner: Chez Yvette, Arcachon The most beloved seafood restaurant in Arcachon. Oysters, fruits de mer and local wines since 1936.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Bordeaux, Night 1 Hotel de Seze, a beautiful 18th-century hotel in the neoclassical city. Approx 120 to 200 euros per night. Saint-Emilion, Night 2 Hostellerie de Plaisance or a local chambre d'hote in the village. Approx 130 to 250 euros per night. Budget Option Bordeaux: Hotel des Quatre Soeurs from approx 70 euros. Saint-Emilion: Auberge from approx 80 euros.
Top Tips
1. Grand Cru chateau visits must be booked in advance. Most require appointments at least a week ahead.
2. Cap Ferret oyster shacks open from 10am. Arrive early as the freshest oysters sell out fast.
3. Saint-Emilion monolithic church tours are the only way inside. Book at the tourist office on arrival.
4. The Dune du Pilat is best at sunrise or sunset. The midday light is flat and it can be very crowded.
5. Bordeaux restaurants close between lunch and dinner. Book La Tupina at least a week ahead.
6. Entre-Deux-Mers white wine is extraordinary value and the finest match for Arcachon oysters.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day