Albanian Riviera
5
Day Itinerary •
Albania
Five days on the Albanian Riviera gives you the complete extraordinary experience of the finest undiscovered coastline in the Mediterranean, from the Llogara Pass panorama and the hidden beaches of the north coast to the UNESCO ruins of Butrint, the Ksamil islands opposite Corfu, a day trip to Gjirokaster and the Blue Eye, and the extraordinary contrast with Greek island prices just 15km across the water. This route covers the full Albanian Riviera at a leisurely pace. Llogara Pass, Gjipe Canyon beach, Dhermi cliff village, Himara Byzantine citadel, Porto Palermo submarine castle, Borsh beach, Saranda, the extraordinary Butrint ruins, the Ksamil island beaches, a day at Gjirokaster with the Blue Eye spring and a final ferry crossing to Corfu for extraordinary comparison value.
Best Time To Visit
May to October
Getting There
Fly into Tirana (TIA), drive 3 hours to Dhermi
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 30 to 65 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
LLOGARA PASS AND DHERMI
MORNING
LLOGARA PASS, THE EXTRAORDINARY GATEWAY TO THE RIVIERA
The Llogara Pass at 1,027 metres is the finest viewpoint on the Albanian Riviera, the dramatic transition from the Albanian interior to the Ionian coast. The drive up from Vlora climbs through extraordinary pine forest to a panorama over the entire riviera, the island of Corfu and the mountains of Greece. Stop at every viewpoint on the descent. The extraordinary scale of the coastline visible from the pass, from Vlora Bay to the Greek border, is one of the finest panoramas in the Mediterranean. Free. Drive: 45 min drive south
MIDDAY
GJIPE CANYON BEACH, HIDDEN COVE OF THE RIVIERA
The Gjipe Canyon beach is the finest hidden beach on the Albanian Riviera, a perfect pebble cove at the base of an extraordinary limestone gorge accessible only by a 30-minute hike down the canyon from the road. The turquoise water, extraordinary limestone walls and complete absence of facilities make it the finest natural beach experience on the coast. The canyon walk itself is extraordinary, the gorge narrowing to just a few metres wide before opening to the sea. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
DHERMI CLIFF VILLAGE AND EVENING
Dhermi is the finest traditional village on the Albanian Riviera, its extraordinary stone houses cascading down the mountainside above the sea with views over the Ionian from every terrace. The old village above the beach road has cobbled lanes and ancient churches largely unchanged for centuries. The beach below is one of the finest on the northern riviera. Staying in Dhermi for two nights gives a proper base for the northern coast beaches.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Karaburun peninsula across Vlora Bay from the Llogara Pass road is the finest protected wilderness coastline in Albania, a UNESCO candidate landscape of sheer limestone cliffs, sea caves and extraordinary clear water accessible only by boat from Vlora. Boat trips from Vlora harbour take 2 hours and cost approx 1,500 ALL per person.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe at Llogara Pass Coffee and local byrek at the pass restaurant with the extraordinary panorama. | Lunch: Beach bar at Gjipe Simple grilled fish at the extraordinary canyon cove. Cheap and extraordinary. | Dinner: Restaurant in Dhermi Fresh Ionian seafood, local white wine and the cliff view at dusk. Under 15 euros.
DAY 2
HIMARA COAST
MORNING
PALASA AND THE NORTHERN RIVIERA HIDDEN BEACHES
The Palasa beach north of Dhermi is one of the finest completely undeveloped beaches on the Albanian Riviera, a long pebble crescent with extraordinarily clear water reached by a rough track from the road. Several other small coves between Palasa and Dhermi are accessible on foot from the coast road and are almost entirely unknown to foreign visitors. The northern riviera above Dhermi is the finest section for hidden beach discovery, with new extraordinary coves accessible at every headland. Drive: 30 min drive south
MIDDAY
HIMARA BYZANTINE CITADEL AND LIVADHI BEACH
Himara is the most extraordinary town on the northern Albanian Riviera. The Byzantine citadel town on the cliff, reached in 20 minutes through extraordinary narrow lanes, has the Church of St Theodore with remarkable frescoes and views over the extraordinary bay below. The Livadhi beach below Himara is the finest easily accessible beach on the northern riviera, a long pebble stretch with excellent beach bars. The town has a significant Greek-speaking minority and the food reflects both traditions. Drive: 30 min drive south
AFTERNOON
QEPARO GHOST VILLAGE AND AFTERNOON BEACH
The village of Qeparo on the cliff above the coast between Himara and Porto Palermo is one of the finest abandoned traditional villages on the riviera, its extraordinary stone houses largely intact but almost entirely empty since the population moved to the beach below in the 1990s. The walk through the village to the old church on the cliff takes 30 minutes and the view over the sea is extraordinary. The beach at Qeparo below is fine and almost entirely undeveloped.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The ancient city of Finiq near Himara is one of the finest and most completely unvisited Greek and Roman cities in Albania, its extraordinary walls and gate towers rising from the olive groves above the road. The site has almost no signage and no entry fee. Ask locally for the track that leads up from the main road.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse in Dhermi Final Dhermi breakfast before moving south. The village coffee is extraordinary. | Lunch: Beach taverna, Himara Fresh grilled fish and local wine on the Himara beach. Extraordinarily cheap. | Dinner: Restaurant in Himara The finest restaurant in Himara. Local octopus, fish and cold Albanian white wine.
DAY 3
PORTO PALERMO AND SARANDA
MORNING
PORTO PALERMO CASTLE AND THE SUBMARINE TUNNELS
Porto Palermo Castle in the extraordinary natural bay between Himara and Saranda is a remarkable combination of 18th-century Ottoman architecture and Cold War Soviet military engineering. Ali Pasha of Ioannina built the castle in 1810 and Enver Hoxha later cut submarine tunnels into the rock behind it as a secret naval base. The castle is in extraordinary condition and the Soviet-era tunnel system is partly accessible. The bay it overlooks is one of the finest natural anchorages on the Ionian coast. Entry approx 200 ALL. Drive: 45 min drive south
MIDDAY
BORSH BEACH AND THE ALBANIAN WILD COAST
Borsh beach south of Porto Palermo is the longest beach in Albania at 7km, a remarkable stretch of pebble and sand backed by ancient olive groves with the mountains above. The southern end of the beach has almost no development and is deserted even in summer. The Borsh castle on the hill above gives extraordinary views along the coast. Swimming in the extraordinarily clear water with the olive groves behind and Corfu visible across the water is the finest natural beach experience on the Albanian coast. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
SARANDA AND THE IONIAN EVENING
Saranda is the hub of the southern Albanian Riviera, its curved bay and seafront promenade looking directly at the island of Corfu across the Ionian Sea. The town is rapidly developing but the seafront is pleasant and the Lekuresi Castle above gives extraordinary panoramic views over the bay and coast. The evening atmosphere in Saranda, with locals and tourists mixing on the promenade and extraordinary cheap seafood available everywhere, is the finest on the Albanian coast.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Blue Bay near Saranda just north of the Greek border is one of the finest completely unspoilt coves on the southern riviera, a small turquoise bay with extraordinary water clarity surrounded by pine forest accessible by a short path from the road. Almost no tourists reach it despite its extraordinary quality. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse in Himara Final Himara breakfast before the Porto Palermo drive south. | Lunch: Beach bar at Borsh Simple fresh grilled fish on Albania's longest beach. Extraordinary setting, extraordinary price. | Dinner: Seafood restaurant, Saranda Fresh Ionian fish and mussels on the Saranda promenade. Corfu visible across the water.
DAY 4
GJIROKASTER DAY TRIP
MORNING
GJIROKASTER DAY TRIP, THE LIVING OTTOMAN CITY
The 2-hour drive from Saranda to Gjirokaster through the Albanian interior is extraordinary in itself, passing through the Drino valley and the foothills of the Nemercka mountains. Gjirokaster's castle, Skenduli House and the extraordinary bazaar street are all within walking distance of each other. The castle museum with the captured US Air Force jet is extraordinary. Allow 3 hours in the city. Entry to castle approx 200 ALL, Skenduli House approx 200 ALL. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
THE BLUE EYE SPRING, ALBANIA'S MOST EXTRAORDINARY NATURAL PHENOMENON
The Blue Eye spring 25km from Gjirokaster is the most extraordinary natural spring in Albania, an impossibly vivid blue pool rising from an unknown depth and temperature never above 10 degrees. The colour, caused by light refraction in the deep water, is extraordinary and no photograph accurately captures it. The surrounding beech forest and the Bistrica river flowing from the spring are beautiful. Entry approx 100 ALL. The drive from Gjirokaster takes 30 minutes through the extraordinary Bistrica gorge. Drive: 2 hour drive back
AFTERNOON
RETURN TO SARANDA AND EVENING
The drive back from the Blue Eye to Saranda takes 1.5 hours through the extraordinary Albanian countryside. The evening in Saranda after the inland day trip gives a fine contrast between the mountain interior and the coastal life. The Saranda waterfront at night with the lights of Corfu town visible across the water 15km away is a genuinely extraordinary sight. An evening swim and fresh seafood dinner completes the perfect inland-coastal day.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The village of Mesopotam between Gjirokaster and the Blue Eye has one of the finest Ottoman bridge complexes in southern Albania, a multi-arch stone bridge over the Bistrica river with an extraordinary caravanserai inn on the bank beside it. Almost entirely unvisited. Free to explore, signed from the main road.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Saranda Early coffee before the Gjirokaster drive. Leave by 8am for the best morning experience. | Lunch: Taverna Fantazia, Gjiro Local byrek and lamb chops in the Gjirokaster bazaar shade before the Blue Eye. | Dinner: Restaurant in Saranda Fresh Ionian seafood back on the coast. The Saranda promenade at night is extraordinary.
DAY 5
BUTRINT AND CORFU
MORNING
BUTRINT, THE UNESCO CITY ABOVE THE LAGOON
Butrint is the most extraordinary archaeological site on the Albanian Riviera and one of the finest in the Mediterranean, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with continuous occupation from the 8th century BC to the 19th century AD. The extraordinary Greek theatre carved into the hillside, the Roman baths, the Byzantine baptistery with its remarkable floor mosaic and the Venetian tower all occupy a single peninsula above the Butrint lagoon. The morning light on the site from the water is extraordinary. Entry approx 700 ALL. Drive: 30 min drive north
MIDDAY
KSAMIL ISLANDS, THE FINEST BEACH ON THE ALBANIAN COAST
The Ksamil islands are the finest beach destination on the Albanian Riviera, four small islands in an extraordinary turquoise lagoon with the island of Corfu clearly visible just 15km across the Ionian Sea. The boat hire from the Ksamil shore costs 500 ALL return and the beaches on the islands are among the finest in the Mediterranean at a fraction of Greek or Croatian prices. A full Albanian seafood lunch costs under 10 euros. Drive: 30 min drive to Saranda
AFTERNOON
FERRY TO CORFU, THE ULTIMATE ALBANIAN VALUE COMPARISON
The Saranda to Corfu ferry takes 35 minutes and runs several times daily. A half-day on Corfu gives an extraordinary perspective on the Albanian Riviera: Greek island prices are approximately five times higher than Albanian for equivalent food, accommodation and beach access. Corfu Town itself is extraordinary and worth 2 hours. The return ferry in the late afternoon gives a final view of the Albanian coast with the Lekuresi Castle on the hill above Saranda. Ferry approx 20 euros return.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ali Pasha island fortress in the Butrint lagoon is an extraordinary 19th-century fortification accessible by kayak from Ksamil or by boat from the Butrint car park. Ali Pasha of Ioannina used the island as a final refuge before his assassination in 1822. Kayak hire from Ksamil approx 500 ALL per hour. Extraordinary setting.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Saranda Final Albanian breakfast before Butrint. The morning bay view with Corfu is extraordinary. | Lunch: Beach bar at Ksamil Fresh grilled fish and Albanian beer on the extraordinary turquoise island beach. | Dinner: Restaurant in Corfu Town Greek dinner on Corfu for extraordinary contrast with Albanian prices. Worth every cent.
Where To Stay
Dhermi, Nights 1 to 2 Guesthouses in village or beach. Approx 25 to 60 euros per night. Himara, Night 3 Seafront guesthouses or hotels. Approx 25 to 60 euros per night. Saranda, Nights 4 to 5 Seafront hotels with Corfu view. Approx 30 to 70 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. The Albanian Riviera rivals the Greek islands for beauty and costs roughly one fifth of the price. A full seafood dinner with wine costs 10 to 15 euros per person.
2. Rent your car in Tirana rather than on the riviera. Prices are lower and availability better. Expect to pay 25 to 35 euros per day for a small car.
3. The Gjipe Canyon beach is the finest hidden beach on the riviera. Pack water and snacks, wear shoes for the 30-minute canyon hike down, and you will be rewarded.
4. Gjirokaster as a day trip from Saranda is entirely feasible. Leave by 8am, spend 4 hours in the city and at the Blue Eye spring, and return for the evening.
5. Butrint is worth 3 hours minimum. The site is large and layered with 3,000 years of history. Get there at opening time for the extraordinary morning light.
6. The ferry to Corfu is extraordinary value. Spend 3 hours on Corfu, eat lunch and come back. The contrast in prices will make the Albanian Riviera feel even more extraordinary.
Total Budget
30 to 65 euros/day